Shape. Your helmet, load bearing web
equipment, rifle and other gear have a clear, often square shape, and there
are no squares in nature. Break up straight lines with strips of burlap,
camo cloth or netting in shades of brown and green. Elastic bands can be
sewn to your uniform or equipment straps to facilitate adding camo strips or
vegetation. Camo materials should not be attached to your rifle in areas
where they may slip and interfere with your firm grip or the mechanical
operation of the weapon. It is better to cover the weapon with paint or
camouflage tape.
Shine. Most modern military equipment
uses plastic or subdued painted metal fasteners and buckles. If the paint
has worn off or you are using commercial equipment with shiny buckles, these
need to be covered with paint or tape. Other shiny surfaces that can reflect
light include binoculars, compasses, watch crystals, plastic map covers and
eyeglasses. Little can be done about eyeglasses other than using headgear
with a low brim or mosquito netting, but other shiny equipment should be
stowed away when not needed and used with caution. Shine also includes skin,
even at night when it will reflect moonlight and flares.
Silhouette. Similar in many respects
to shape, silhouette includes the outline of the human form and the
equipment it is carrying. The shape of the head and shoulders of a man are
unmistakable and a bare helmet attracts attention. The use of local
vegetation as garnishing helps break up your silhouette. Thick handfuls of
grass tucked into your shoulder straps are especially useful in breaking up
the distinctive "head and shoulders" shape of the human figure and
vegetation added to a helmet breaks the smooth curve of the top and the line
of the brim. Take care not to overdo adding local vegetation. You shouldn't
need a machete to hack a path through your camouflage to get at your ammo
pouch or other necessary equipment. Also, a large bush or tree is sure to
attract attention when it starts to move. Silhouette also includes field
craft. However well camouflaged you may be, it is little help if you "sky
line" yourself by walking along the top of a hill or ridge line, or if you
stand against a background of one solid color.
Smell. Even the most urbanized man
will develop a good sense of smell after a few days in the open. He will be
able to detect engine smells, cooking, body odors and washing. Some smells
are hard to minimize. Soaps should be scent-free and activities such as
cooking should be confined to daylight hours when other smells are stronger
and the air warmer. Rubbish from cooking should be carried away from your
operational area and buried only as a second choice. Buried objects are
often dug up by animals and can give a good indication of the strength and
composition of your patrol or unit as well as its morale. The discipline of
refuse removal is important.
Sound. You can make a lot of noise
while out on patrol. Your boots can squeak. Your cleaning kit or magazines
can rattle in your ammo pouches. Heavy pack frames can creak. Fittings on
your weapon can rattle. Radios can have background noise. Coughing and
talking can carry for long distances, especially at night. You must become
familiar with a silent routine in which hand signals replace the spoken word
and conversations are conducted in a whisper. Proper stowage of your gear,
taping of slings and other noisy equipment and a final shakedown before a
patrol moves out will reduce noise. If digging a position, place sentries
far enough out that they will spot an enemy before he hears the sound of
digging.
Color. Though most modern combat
uniforms are in a disruptive pattern camouflage, there may be times when
this is less helpful. The trouble with camo clothing is that in the wrong
environment, like cities, it stands out and says "Hey, look at me!" If
fighting in built-up areas, a pattern of greys, browns and dull reds would
be more useful than the typical woodland BDU pattern. Natural vegetation
used to garnish helmets and equipment will fade and change color. Leaves
will dry and curl up exposing pale under surfaces. You may have put dark
green ferns and leaves into your helmet band while in the woods and then
find yourself moving through an area of pale open grassland. Check and
change your camouflage regularly. The most obvious color that needs
camouflaging is that of human skin, and for that you need G.I. camo stick
or, preferably, a commercial camo cream. G.I. camo sticks are issued in loam
and light green for use in areas with green vegetation. A sand and light
green stick is used in areas lacking green vegetation. A loam and white
stick is for use in snow covered terrain. If camo sticks or creme are not
available use burnt cork, bark or charcoal for the dark color and mud for
the light color. Dark colors are used to reduce the highlights formed by the
nose, cheek bones, chin, ears and forehead. Lighter colors are used in areas
of shadow under the eyes, nose and chin. When applying camo to your face it
is useful to work with a buddy and help each other. G.I. camo sticks are
rough on the skin and difficult to apply. A few drops of baby oil, skin
lotion or insect repellent rubbed on the skin first will make it much easier
to apply. Skin camo needs to be periodically touched-up as you move and
sweat. A simple pattern for the face is to apply a light color first to the
entire face and then add dark diagonal stripes. The diagonals cut though and
break up the horizontal and vertical lines of the eyes nose and mouth.
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