Leatherworking

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LOTR Costume Making Website Has a series of pages & articles on Leather Working that are worth a quick look. Lots of internal links in the pages to good external pages.

Leatherworking in the Middle Ages This site is divided into two areas: What we know was actually done in the Middle Ages, and 20th Century leatherworking done by Reenactors and Recreationists. No criticism or editorial comment is intended by this separation. It is intended to make things easier for people looking for different things.

Basics:

Curing & Using Hides & Skins: Even if you are not obliged to use the skins of animals for garments or footwear they may often be used to good advantage when camping out and every camper should learn how to tan hides and skins and how to make moccasins. Excerpt from the: "Book of Camping" By A. Hyatt Verrill, 1917; Chapter Five

A Brief Introduction to Leather - Types of Leather [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Leatherworking - A Basic Guide. This article is adapted from articles in Adventurer By Ian Turner: Leather can be obtained in a number of ways. One of the cheapest ways of buying leather is to get old leather coats from charity shops. Shops that make and sell leather goods might sell off-cuts as might cobblers. If you want lot of leather go to a tanner and buy from them directly as they will often do you a good price on things. [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Working Leather Basic Leatherworking Kit LeatherWorth a gander. Actually pretty concise and well thought out. [PDF]

Legio XX Leather Tips The Online Handbook has grown far beyond the original printed version, and is continually being updated. Illustrations are added whenever possible. More pictures can be found elsewhere on the Legion website (particularly the Photos and Roman Days pages), on various linked sites, and in the books in our Bibliography. You may feel free to download, copy, or print any part of our Handbook, as long as you give credit where credit is due and do not attempt to use it for profit. Fascinating website. Only the linked-to section is pertinent (I think) but the whole site is really interesting. Wait... Caligae Roman sandals (leather strap sandals)

Medieval Leather Working Techniques Very interesting, and fairly detailed. Covers tooling, painting & dying, tools and styles.

Leatherworking The steps in most leatherworking projects can be grouped as follows: layout, cutout, assembly and finishing. Layout involves making a full-scale pattern of all pieces. Cutout involves cutting the pieces of leather. Assembly includes dyeing the leather, marking and punching the stitch lines and stitching. Finishing includes oiling, polishing and burnishing. See also on this site: Indian Tanning | Soft Sole Plains Moccasins | Buckskin Shirt | Leggings | Plains Indian Dress | Hunting Bag | Knife Sheath

STITCHING My goal is to present enough basic information, to teach the novice how to get started stitching leather, with two needles, and length of the proper thread. Its been done this way for as long as man has been making things of leather, and it still works, and is in many cases, much much more durable, than any machine lock stitch. [Onsite archive article]

New "Stitching" Article Thanks to Sid for pointing out that the original article (above) was no longer online. Here's what replaced it.

Leatherworking Cutting and stitching leather All text and very basic... but free!

How to Use a Stitching Awl in Leather Work: Use a stitching awl to punch holes in leather along the stitching line. This tool resembles a small ice pick and comes in two parts: the awl (needle) and the haft (handle). Look for sets that include interchangeable awls of various sizes... eHow articles don't have alot of detail but are usually worth a look. See also: Sew a Tunnel Stitch on Leather | Choose Leather | Sew a Double Needle Stitch on Leather | Make a Pair of Moccasins | Cut Leather

A Guide to Leatherworking Tools and supplies for www.bowstock.co.uk A sales site, but a really extensive list.

Knife Network : Workshop - The WRTC Method of Stitching a Leather ... The following is a tutorial on hand sewing leather using a method I have
developed over forty years of seeking the "Perfect Stitch". It works for me...

Projects

Pouch Making Guide These are one of the easiest leather items to make - a basic pouch is a long rectangle of supple leather (or cloth) folded in half with two of the edges sewn up and, either the tops folded over and sewn to create a tube, or punch an even number of holes at the top for a drawstring. Alternatively use two rectangles and sew three of the sides up... [Link recovered 4/28/11]

The Glove Website It seems the major trick in making gloves is not the sewing or decorating, but the fitting - make patterns on scrap leather or interfacing, and test-fit before cutting the good leather...

How to make your own whip Even a beginner should be able to make a good working whip by following the instructions, either in back issue of our journal or in some of the books that I have written on the subject, but I would advise mastering the basic four strand whip first before attempting anything more elaborate. If there is anything special that you want to know about you could give us a ring or drop a line. As for cracking whips, there is nothing on that subject to be found in these pages, for while the making of a whip can be taught from a book the cracking can only be learned by practice...

Arapaho Moccasins Perhaps the finest artifact we have in the museum collection is the pair of moccasins that we have featured in this current article. They came to us through the generosity of Dave Conte who got them from a collection in northern California. That is where the information ends and the mystery begins. The soles, unfortunately, are replacements done fairly recently so the shape of the original rawhide soles is lost and with it any clues of tribal characteristics that are found in sole outlines. The general cut of the moccasin is Plains Indian, but these are many: Sioux, Cheyenne, Kiowa, Commanche, Pawnee, Oto, Arapaho, Crow, Bannock, Shoshone, Ute, etc., just to mention a few.

A Beginner's Addendum to Making Shoes includes articles on Skiving and Butt-Stitching 101. See also: Making a Pair of Medieval "Bag" Shoes Mostly Iron Age.pdf file

Making a Leather Bottle: Procedure and materials. First thing to do is to decide what shape you would like your bottle to be in. I recommend making a “flat” bottle as your first project. I will have a basic pattern in several sizes... [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Leather Bottle Patterns: There are basically two methods to shaping your bottle...the 2 pieces sandwiched together, or the 3 dimensional pieced together. This second method is more difficult, and I would recommend not doing that as your first type unless you have good sewing skills and patience. [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Making Medieval Shoes: By Martin Austwick: Shoes in the late mediaeval period were constructed in a somewhat different manner to their modern day equivalent. The following is a construction guide for anyone who wishes to make a pair of authentic turnsoles.

SHOE FROM PARLIAMENT ST. YORK ~ CONSTRUCTION NOTES: This pattern is for a type of early medieval (l0th to 13th cent.) shoe that is distributed widely in North Western Europe, examples are known from York, England as well as Hedeby/Haithabu in Germany and Svendborg in Sweden. The shoe (Find no.756), sole (757), and upper (819) are described in reference [1]. A triangular internal heel stiffener is present on some shoes of this type, but may be omitted. For much useful information on medieval shoe construction, see reference [2].

Making Medieval "Bag" Shoes This document covers the making of a make a pair of medieval hide shoes which is any shoe made from a single piece of leather fitted to the foot. Specifically Cuarans (in Celtic), Rivelins (in Teutonic or Scottish), or sometimes referred to as bag shoes by Scadians. This is a relatively simple shoe design dating back to at least the7th century based upon finds from a bog in Ireland. The shoes are constructed from one piece of leather stretched and gathered about the foot with thongs.

Pattens, Clogs and Wooden Soled Shoes Before I get into this, I feel it's important to note that I have a certain bias. I don't like pattens, clogs, or wooden soled shoes. I don't know why this is, and objectively there is nothing wrong with them. They are part of the record. I just don't care much for them. I suppose I could claim that it's due to my scarred past, of being forced to wear platforms during the 70s, or that I nearly broke my neck the first time I tried to run in wooden shoes, but those aren't enough to justify this sort of disregard. So while I will try to tell you something about them, I will warn you that I may not be doing them justice, and encourage you very strongly to take a long look at the sources for this paper and look there as well...

Apache Handbag: This Apache Indian styled handbag should be made of a soft leather, either full grain or suede, which can be sewed easily by hand. The finished handbag has dimensions of 10" wide by 12" deep and features a long shoulder strap and 5" leather fringe. [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Sioux Pouch: This Sioux Indian styled pouch is the type of pouch used to carry tobacco or other medicines, herbs or tools, and usually hung from their belt. It is a very handy size, about 5" x 6" with a 5" fringe. It easily holds any full pack of cigarettes, with plenty of room to carry even a small coin purse, tissues, etc. It works really well wearing it on your wrist while you dance the night away, never worrying about where you left your purse (speaking from experience here). [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Plains Medicine Pouch: This Plains Indian styled medicine pouch is the type of pouch used to carry their own personal medicine around their neck. Personal medicine could be anything which holds meaning to them, such as a herb, an animal fetish, a special rock they found while on a vision quest, etc. It is compact size of up to about 2.5" x 3.5" with up to a 3" fringe. The fringe shown here is cut in a "V" shape, but that can be done in any way you wish (samples are included with the Free instructions). [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Making a Leather Knife Sheath by Bill Scherer: Fast, Easy, and Good-lookin' Knife Sheath - At the Rattlesnake Rendezvous (a primitive skills campout), I met a fellow by the name of Ken Peek. Ken was wearing a really nice looking knife case. He was kind enough to let me have a close look at it...

Inuit Thimble by Dick Baugh (January 23, 2000): How many times have you acquired a sore thumb either from a lot of whittling or pushing a needle through tough material? Here is a simple remedy for that situation.

How to Make a Rabbit Skin Blanket by Bob Gillis and Judy Gillis: First, I want to tell you how wonderful the finished blanket is: it is extremely luxurious, light weight (4 lbs) and yet exceedingly warm, soft, and supple. We consider this blanket one of our most prized possessions. You feel like you're snuggling up with 50 soft, cuddly rabbits whenever you want. If you choose to make one you will not regret it...

Pelt Bag by Markus Klek: All you braintanners know the situation: You have successfully tanned all those neat pelts and skins and now you wonder what the heck to do with them...

See How to make Chopper Mittens Simple chopper mittens are not too difficult to make for someone who has a little experience in sewing with leather. The most involved part is sewing the thumb-piece to the rest of the mitt. Here is the Chopper Mitten Pattern For Child and Here is the Chopper Mitten Pattern For Adult

Leather Bags and Pouches At the bottom of the page are links for making Awl Sheath, Needle Case, Strike-a-lite Bag and Tobacco Pouch

Overview of Native American Footwear ~ Moccasins and See Instructions for Making Center-seam Moccasins

Making a Sheath Fairly detailed, but all text

"Make Your Own Stock Whip" Actual text instructions. Wow. See Also: "Make Your Own Bull Whip" More actual instructions. Wow, again. And then: "Common Whip Repairs" Text & illustrations for common whip repairs.

No Sew Belt Pouch

Reproduction of the Early Medieval Knight's Saddle Wow. This is not for the easily distracted...

BMC :: Leather Upholstery for Model Interiors 101 What can be more realistic than recreating leather interior of the car in real leather on the model? With proper application technique - nothing! In this tutorial, I will cover some basics of working with leather, and some techniques to create realistic leather panels for model interiors...

A Practical Guide to Reproducing 14th Century Shoes The shoes found in the excavations in London docklands reveal a number of variations on a standard construction method called a "turn shoe". A turn shoe is so called because it is constructed inside out, and then turned, leaving the seams on the inside and the finished (possibly decorated) surface of the leather on the outside. There seem to have been three variations on this theme, the plain turn shoe, which was followed by the turn shoe with a "rand" and finally a type of shoe called a "turn welt" shoe. A "rand" is a narrow leather strip inserted into the seam between the sole and the upper to increase weatherproofness. In some 15th century shoes a wider "rand", which is then called a "welt" is included. This allows the cobbler to attach an additional thick sole (or "clump") to the welt increasing the durability of the finished shoe...

Hide Preparation

Curing & Stretching Hides & Skins: Curing Skins. Stretchers. The Hoop Stretcher. Tanning Skins. To Tan Mink And Muskrat Skins. How To Tan The Skins Of Beaver, Otter, Raccoon, And Marten. Observations On The History Of Furs And The Fur Trade. Market Value Of Fur Skins. American Fur Skins—Their Uses At Home And Abroad.

SD3 - Leather Staining, Dyeing and Decorating No records can tell you when animal skins were first used or discovered. Primitive man is credited with using skins for protection but these were subject to decay and rot in a very quick time. When tanning and leather were first discovered is also a mystery and was, by popular belief, probably found by accident - as many important discoveries are. Tanning or tannic acid, which is used to convert raw hides and skins into leather, is available from parts of trees. How this connection was made is still a mystery and probably the theory that the discovery was made by chance is valid...

Leatherworking There are three methods of making leather: oiling, tawing and tanning. Oiling is the simplest method and involves working animal fat into the skins and then curing them with smoke. This acts a preservative and produces a buff-colored product. This method is already falling out of favor by the medieval period.

Brains, Bones & Hotsprings: Native American Deerskin Dressing at the Time of Contact What can we learn? What myths can we let go of? by Matt Richards: Adapted and updated for the web from an article printed in The Bulletin of Primitive Technology, Fall 1996

"Leather Working" by B. Levick. Article is generalized, but contains an interesting method of "bating" used by the Vikings to soften the leather prior to tanning.

An introduction to natural tanning and leathers

Braintanning Buffalo Robes by Wes Housler

Native American Deerskin Dressing at the Time of Contact Fascinating historical article

Brain tan throughout the ages Adapted for the web from a chapter in Deerskins into Buckskins by Matt Richards

Vaughn Terpack tells you what is different and good about tanning goats

How to make your fleshing beam better for your back By Vaughn Terpack, © 1998

The Pre-smoking Method Revised and Expanded December 9, 1998 by Joseph Dinsmore & Victoria Longtrail

Tanning Deer Hides and Small Fur Skins. James E. Knight, Extension Wildlife Specialist. Because preserving hides and furs is a very old art, many successful methods have been developed through the years. Native Americans used wood ashes to remove the hair and used deer brains as a tanning agent. Squaws chewed the hides to produce a soft buckskin, but few modern hobby tanners would want to try these methods. Great article, but using modern chemicals & techniques. This link has been known to be a bit punky - try it later if it doesn't go through the first time.

Brain Tanning Furs By George Michaud. This article is adapted for the web from an article George originally wrote for Fur-Fish-Game Magazine. There is an assumption that the reader already has a basic knowledge of certain steps of fur-handling. I recommend using this article in conjunction with Jim Miller's article (next)

Tan Your Pelts With Nature's Tools By Jim Miller. Our ancestors lived very close to the circle of life. Thankful always for the food, tools and clothing that came from a successful hunt. Warmth, color, protection and camouflage are shared with us by our four-legged brothers through the giving of their pelts. Today, one need only walk the roadside to find animals whose lives were taken. Thoughtlessly and sometimes without knowing, left there to become crow food. Whether you are seven or seventy, for the beginning tanner a road kill could become a rewarding first project.

Medieval Leather Dying Dying leather was done, but these appear to be limited to green, red, blue, black and brown. During the Middle Ages, as with today, they also seemed to think in terms of dying whole hides and skins, frequently in concert with the tannage or tawing process.

Old Timers' Formulas-Leather Grease and Vinegar Black
Here is the one for adding what the old-timers would call grease to your leather.
This formula can be made up in several ways.
The first thing you have to do is to go to the meat department at your local grocery and purchase a good sized chunk of Suet, which is the name of raw tallow. Several pounds will get you a good start.
When you get home, place this is a roasting pan and put into the oven, setting the temperature at around 300 degrees and cook it until it has rendered into a liquid. Then, strain off the liquid into a container, set it aside, and throw away what is left in the pan.
Next, you may take either pure neatsfoot oil or cod liver oil, of the same amount, and mix it with the
hot tallow. The adding of Pure Neatsfoot oil is the American version, while the adding of the cod oil is the English version. You will notice that as the tallow cools, it becomes like a wax, in fact, this liquid tallow is the same thing that pure wax tapers, which are a type of candle, are made of. You can also, if you want, add a little pure caranuba wax to it. This will help give your leather a slight waxey feel when you apply the mixture.
After it has been mixed, it will store easily, as it will harden.
When you want to use it, you will have to heat it to bring it back to a liquid.
I have used this to apply to harness leather, to restore the oils in the leather, thus keeping it pliable and somewhat water proof. I have also applied this to natural veg tanned strap leather to make a good substitute for English bridle type of leather.
To make this type of leather, you must apply as much of the tallow as you can get the leather to absorb. It will slightly darken your leather, but, it will make up into very nice looking horse tack, especially for English type of riding goods, like reins or bridles.

Another formula is for Vinegar black.
To make this type of blackening you will need some plain steel wool and apple cider vinegar, as well as an old pan. Take enough of the steel wool to fill a quart jar and then place it in the pan, next, pour a quart of pure apple cider vinegar over it, and then heat it to near the boiling point. When it is cool, place it in a glass or plastic container, and let it sit for about one week.
Then, it should then be reheated again and then, poured back into the container and left to sit for another week or so.
Then, you strain off the liquid, putting it into a non metal container.
To use it, you apply several coats, which will go on as a sort of light gray color, but, as it sets into the leather, it will become a nice black, that will not rub off. I guess the reason it works so well can best be explained this way. As many of you know, from having left a steel tool lay on a damp piece of leather, the steel will turn the leather black and this black cannot be removed with bleach or any other cleaners. My best guess is that it is a chemical reaction. Perhaps those of you who have chemistry backgrounds can offer a better explanation.

Brain Tanning Deer Hides ~ Many Moons ~ Contributed by Fred. Sparse text. See also: Preserving a Hide with the Fur On | Preserving Deer Tails | Removing Deer Toes and Preserving Bird Wings, Tails, or Talons

Tanning with Alum Alum tanning is a good method for beginners, or as one of the least expensive to produce a finer finished product than the borax. Not quite as easy to achieve first-time-out as the borax, but still rather simple once you have the formula and techniques down.

3 Fingered gloves Pictures and pattern. Pretty good Idea - my fingers always go cold with 5 finger gloves, but I bet this would cure (or at least ease) that problem.

Other

How to store hides You want to store hides so that they are in optimum condition for tanning: uniformly moist, and protected from rot, dogs, ring-tails, bears and bugs.

A three page essay on making and using smoke houses Text provided by Mac Maness, Richard, Rod & Jane (edited by Matt Richards)

learn how to make cool stuff out of hoofs Native Americans have been using game animal hoofs and dewclaws for centuries to make rattles, bandoliers and decorations for countless items. Using these raw materials helps create another tie back to Mother Earth where all these gifts come from. The hoofs and dewclaws of whitetail and mule deer, the hoofs of antelope and the dewclaws from small elk can all be used easily. In this article, I will discuss preparing deer and antelope hoofs for use and touch briefly on preparing deer and elk dewclaws. By Ken Smith

History of leather To discover the origins of Walsall's leather industry we need to look back to the Middle Ages. Amongst the town's recorded early crafts and occupations there are few references to leather workers but, in contrast, numerous ones to saddlers' ironmongers or loriners. Loriners produced a variety of horse-related items, including stirrups, bits, buckles, spurs, saddle trees and harness mounts and decorations...

Leatherwork Merit Badge Has some interesting links, as well as the requirements for gaining this scouting merit badge.

Chapter Five HARNESS AND SADDLERY. TRAINING NOTES FOR THE LIGHT HORSE ASSOCIATION. Very interesting notes. [Link recovered 4/28/11]

Beginner's Tips for Leatherworking by Eric Filardi:
Okay, after recently working with leather (all day today), I have compiled a list of things NOT to do when using it:

1) Don't put your pattern in the middle of the hide and start cutting it out, then realize you wasted the whole hide.
2) Don't leave your Exacto knife loose after putting a blade in, and breaking 7 blades before figuring out what the heck you did wrong.
3) Do NOT slice the tip of your pointer finger off, and get lots of blood on the bracer you were working on.
4) Don't let your cat(s) carry in dead birds from outside and drop them on the leather while you are on the phone.
5) Don't drop the open bottle of black leather dye on your sparkling clean hardwood floor.
6) Don't put your thumb on your cutting line.
7) Don't let small children sneak up and jump on you while you are cutting the leather.

Last but not least:
8) Don't do all of this, finally finish the pattern, only to realize that it's too small to fit you.

Forums

Atlantian A&S Links There appear to be some really great posts and resources here: 6 related categories: Quivers & Arrow-Bags (5) Leather Armor (9) Belts (27) Gloves & Mittens (30) Pouches, Purses, Bags, and Satchels (59) Bookbinding (64) Leather Drinking Vessels (8) Shoes & Shoemaking (80)
16th Century Footwear, Bag Shoes, Pattens, Sandals, Turnshoes

Leatherwork from A to Z for all those who like to make things from leather, paint on leather, tool leather, tan leather, make leather armor, shoes, hats, garments, costumes, masks, yadda yadda.

SCA_Leatherworking This is a group for novice and expert leatherworkers in the The Society for Creative Anachronism to meet and exchange information and ideas.

leather-msg Working with leather. General info on leather. NOTE: See also the files: lea-tooling-msg, lea-tanning-msg, lea-bladders-msg, leather-dyeing-msg, butchering-msg, parchment-msg.

Leather crafting Backwoods Home Magazine (One of our Favorites)

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