NEVER SIT ON DAMP GROUND!
Use something, even if it is only a log. If there is no ready-made seat available, lash together a couple of low A-frame support and rest another bough across them. Make a simple box frame with cross-members linking legs from short lengths of wood.

TO MAKE A SEAT:
Weave vines or twine back and forth or sew on a piece of canvas or plastic with thongs. Failing these, try a flat piece of wood or metal laid across, or thin springy saplings lashed to the frame and interwoven.

CAMP CHAIR: 
A comfy camp chair can be made in 10-15 min. and will give hours of comfort. Select 2 stout forked sticks 4 feet long and 3 inches thick. The forks MUST BE at wide angle and cut with the straighter of the 2 prongs about 9 to 10 inches long and the other wide angled prong about 12 to 15 inches. Cut another stout forked stick about 4 feet in length and leave the prongs of this sufficiently long to hold the 2 sticks you have cut before. Across the seat portion of the chair lash straight sticks about an inch thick & continue these up the back of the chair. On the seat portion they MUST BE close together but on the back they can be spaced 2 or 3 inches apart. There may be difficulties in finding 2 sticks with wide angled prongs in which case you can make your chair by using 2 hooked stakes. The crotch of the hook should be 8 inches above the end of the stick and the sticks themselves should be about 3 feet 6 inches long. Two poles each about 5 feet long are laid one each through the hooked portion of the sticks that have their upper ends lashed together. These 2 poles are lashed together behind the chair and a forked pole leading from the upper end where the hooked stakes are lashed comes back to these 2 side poles and is lashed again. This gives you the framework for your chair.

A good bushman makes himself comfy wherever he may be. The simple seat of course is either to roll up a log or select a site where a fallen tree will serve you. Also you can use a few stones to build up a platform and between these you can lay 2 or 3 poles for your seat.

CAMP SEAT:
A very comfy fireside camp seat can be made by driving 2 short stakes into the ground so that the forks are pointing outward that is away from the opposite stake. The bottom of the forks should be from 8 to 10 inches above the ground level. 2 back forked stakes about 3 feet 6 inches long are driven into the ground 15 to 18 inches behind these 2 short stakes. These back stakes should be driven in on a slight angle, leaning away from the 2 forward forks. The forks of the rear stakes should point outward. Both short and long stakes should be not less than 2 inches thick and the fork at least 1 and half inch thick. The short stakes should be at a convenient distance from the fireplace anything from 3 to 6 feet depending upon the size fire you usually build. Cut 2 cross bars each about 3 inches thick and cut nicks in these so they fit snugly in place in the forks & connect front & rear forks. Length ways lay straight smooth sticks, 1 to 2 inches thick. These MUST BE close together. Along the back that is to the tall stakes, lash similar sticks from 2 to 3 inches apart. This makes an excellent fireside camp seat and the comfort it gives well repays the 1/2 hour it took to build.

10 MINUTE CAMP BED: 
A sound night's rest is worth 10 min toil. Time spent in making a camp bed that will keep you both comfy and warm are time well spent even for Rambo. Cut 2 poles 6 to 7 inches thick & about 7 feet long. Lay these parallel to each other 3 feet apart & to prevent them from rolling put pegs at head and foot, driven well into the ground with about a foot of the peg above the pole. Cut about 20 or 30 straight strong sticks 3 and half feet long and lay these every 4 inches across the 2 poles. Now on top of these cross sticks place 2 poles 3 to 4 inches thick and 7 feet long. They should lie against the peg driven in to hold the 2 bed poles secure. At the head end of the bed lay about 6 cross sticks on top of these last 2 poles. Now cut green brushwood, fern or waste green stuff such as sucker growth or weedy bushy material and put this so that the main stalks are length ways along the bed. Pile it high between the top poles and lying across the cross sticks. The resulting bed will be as springy & comfy as any you have ever slept in your life.

TRAVOIS: 
For bringing fuel or your prepared kill back to camp, or for other loads a travois will work if the ground is fairly smooth-it will not on rough and boulder strewn terrain. Choose two boughs with some spring to them and lash cross-piece as for the ladder. Add additional struts to provide closer support. Pull the load on its runners like a sled. If you are pulling loads over a short distance, lash the runners to come to a single grip. For a larger version leave the last space clear or fit leather or fabric shoulder straps to haul it by.

CAMP TABLE:
For the framework select 2 forked stakes at least 3 inches thick & 4 to 5 inches long. The length depends upon the soil and how far you will have to drive the stakes into the ground to make them quite secure. The lower end of each stake is sharpened and the head beveled. The first stake should be driven well into the earth so that the lowest part of the crotch of the fork is 3 feet above the ground. The prong of the fork should be pointing out from the length you want your table say from 4 to 7 feet and drive in the other stake with its prong also pointing outward that is away from the first stake. This stake MUST also be driven the same depth into the ground as the first stake. Cut 4 strong straight stakes 4 feet 6 to 5 feet in length and at least 2 1/2 inches thick. Place these with one end in the crotch of the forks and at right angles to the line of the forked stakes. Note where the sticks cross each other in the forks and scarf out cuts in each so that the 2 will nest together in the crotch. These side poles carry the table poles and the seat poles so they MUST seat securely in the forks. On to these side poles and about 2 feet above ground level 2 strong poles 2 inches thick are securely lashed. These poles are for the table and later straight sticks are laced side by side across these poles for the actual table top. 15 inches above the ground level 2 very strong poles 3 inches thick and 7 to 8 feet in length are lashed. These lashings MUST BE very tight to make these 2 poles secure to the 2 side poles and also to the forked stakes you first drove into the ground. These poles serve both as a bracing to carry the seat.

Your table is now ready for finishing. Cut short straight sticks for the top. You will need 8 sticks for every foot in length of table top. The seat-sticks at least 3 to 4 inches thick are cut 1 foot longer than the length of the table. You will need at least 3 of these seat sticks for each side. They are not lashed to the cross poles but allowed to lie on them so that the distance of the seat from the table can be adjusted by either pulling or pushing them in.

If the ground is soft or loose sand your table will require bracing and this can be done simply by 2 diagonal braces from the table level of each of the forked stakes to the foot of the other. Where the bracing cross they should be lashed. An alternative is to cut 2 five foot forks of the stakes in the ground. Their own butts MUST BE firmly seated on the ground & held from slipping by a stout peg driven well in the ground. This type of structure is recommended for a portable table. When securely lashed the whole table is EXTREMELY strong. A fly thrown over the top bar can be used to give shade.

ANOTHER TYPE CAMP TABLE DRY COUNTRY:
It is simply to dig 2 trenches, 2 or 3 feet apart on their inside edges and at least 10 to 12 inches deep. Only suitable when earth is clay or firm enough to be dug in clean sods. Sods are used to give height to the seat.

STICK HAMMOCK:
A camp loom is set up and the hammock is woven using vines, twisted bark fibbers, grass rope etc. for the weaving and sticks about 1 inch thick for the cross parts. The hammock should be at least 3 feet wide by 7 feet long. The end 2 spreaders should be 2 inches thick & from these short lengths of rope are brought to the central rope by means of which the hammock is suspended. Ropes from each of the 4 corners will also serve to suspend the hammock. A grass mattress also woven on the camp loom makes an excellent cover for the hammock.

CAMP LOOM:
2 stout forked stakes about 2 inches thick are cut and driven into the ground with their lower prongs 3 feet above the ground and facing away from the direction you wish to work. The distance between the stakes should be at least 6 inches wider than the widest article you want to weave. Across the forks a cross bar about one inch thick is laid. It is advisable to trim this cross bar of twigs and roughness and it should be fairly strong. 8 or 9 feet from the cross bar and on the side farthest from the prongs a row of straight smooth stakes each about 4 feet long is driven into the ground so that there are about 2 inches between the centers of the stakes. These stakes should be trimmed of any side twigs or roughness. A weaving bar a few inches longer than the width of the row of stakes is cut and laid on the ground parallel and about 6 inches in front of this row of stakes. Your camp loom is now ready to be set up for a weaving.

An alternative to the row of stakes & a considerable improvement if a situation is available is to select a site where 2 trees are at a convenient distance apart. At ground level and about 7 feet above the ground, 2 stout cross bars, 2 inches thick are lashed to the tree trunks and to these crossbars a series of smooth vertical sticks are lashed at the top & bottom. These sticks are about 2 inches apart at centers.

TO WEAVE ON CAMP LOOM: 
Lengths of the weaving material are tied to the stakes are shown brought back over the crossbars & then forward & between the stakes & then tied to the weaving bar in front of the row of stakes (this is the "weft" of your weaving). A ball of material is tied to the outside strand and then passed between the 2 rows of strands (this is the warp) with the weaving bar lying on the ground. The weaving bar is lifted above the weft and the ball returned again between the weft threads. Repeat by alternatively lifting and lowering the weaving bar.

CAMP MATTRESS OR STICK HAMMOCK:
The weft or long strands are set up as for weaving, but instead of warp (cross strands) tufts of grass, fern or other material or sticks for a stick hammock are passed between the weft. In weaving a camp mattress it is advisable to put in a warp tie every second or third lift. This binds the sides and prevents the outside weft strands spreading. Strands of sun dried grass, loosely spun can be woven into a covering for a camp bed if you are without blanket. When weaving for this purpose MAKE SURE that the warp strands are pushed closely up to each other. Do not try and make a camp blanket too heavy. It is far better to make 2 light grass covering than one heavy one since it is a number of layers rather than extreme thickness of 1 layer which keeps you warm.

WEAVING A CAMP HAMMOCK: 
Normally a hammock is made by using the netting tie and netting needle, but a serviceable hammock can be woven on the camp loom from bush materials. The ball of warp is passed around the weft threads to from an overhand knot on the lower lay of the weft and these knots pulled tights make the weaving secure.

LADDER:
Food collecting, shelter building, trap setting and a whole lot of other task will be easier with a ladder. This one is easily made by lashing cross-piece to two long poles. Because these are set an angle, not parallel, the rungs will not be able to slip down.

BUSH LADDER:
Easily made. Select 2 long straight poles cut to equal length. Lash the thin ends together. Spread the butts or thick ends so that they are about 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart. To these lash the rungs & MAKE CERTAIN that the lashings are good and tight. Lashing the rungs is made easier if you lift the butts on to a log or a couple of big stones. It will be easier to pass the lashing material under the poles. MAKE SURE that the top end is narrower than the bottom end, it is more solid that way.

SINGLE LADDER ROPE: 
Cut as many hard wood chocks 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick as you require for you ladder. These are placed every 15 to 18 inches apart. The chocks should be about 4 inches across and can be cut from either square or round timber. Bore a hole through the center of each chock. This hole should not be more than 1/8 inch larger than the diameter of the rope. Thread the rope through the holes in the chocks and then starting at one end open the strand of the rope and slip in a 1/2 inch thick hard wood peg about 3 inches long. Bind the rope below the peg. Slide the chock down and measure off the distance to the next step.

EMERGENCY LAMP: A CANDLE HOLDER FROM A BOTTLE:
Open flame is DANGEROUS in a tent, so cut off the base of a clear glass bottle. A very easy way to cut the glass cleanly is to heat a piece of thin wire to red hot. Bend this around the bottle where you want to cut it alternatively tie a piece of grease-soaked string round the bottle and burn it. Then when the hot wire or burning string is around the bottle, immerse the bottle in cold water. The glass will break off evenly at the place where the wire or string encircled it.

CAMP BROOM: 
A bundle of green straight sticks each not much thicker than a match stick is collected and bound tightly to a central handle, the business end of the broom is then trimmed off.

BUSH HOE: (EFFICIENT!)
Select a dead or half dead branch of hard wood, 4 to 6 inches thick with a side branch from 5 to 6 feet long & 1 inch & half thick coming off it at a fairly wide angle. Trim the side branch so that it's smooth. With your machete trim the main branch so that it is a hook to the handle part. See that it is sharpened to a chisel edge. This bush hoe is quite an efficient digging tool particularly if the digging end is fire hardened.

BUSH SLED: 
There are occasions when it IS NECESSARY to move a heavy load and a bush sled can be easily made from a forked branch of a tree. The branch is cut with the prongs of the fork a couple of feet behind the end of the main branch. A rope or other means of towing the sled is fastened on to this main part of the branch & across the forks a few straight sticks are laid & the load placed on top of these.

NOTE ON ROPES AND LINES. 
Ropes can be made from any pliable, fibrous material producing strands of sufficient length & strength. Nylon rope have the advantage of great inherent strength, lightness, resistance to water, insects and rot. However nylon rope should not be the automatic choice if choosing equipment. Nylon has the disadvantage that it can melt if subjected to heat and friction on a rope produces heat. It is also slippery when wet. While its tensile strength is good, nylon also tends to snap if subjected to tension over an edge - it does not have to be a very sharp edge either, so BE CAREFUL of this.

ROPE MAKING: 
Almost any natural fibrous material can be spun into good serviceable rope or cord and many material which have a length of 12 to 24 inches or more can be braided or plaited. Ropes of up to 3 and 3 inches diameter can be laid by four people & breaking strains from bush made rope of 1 inch diameter range from 100 to as high as 2,000 or 3,000 lbs.

BREAKING STRAINS:
Taking a three lay rope of 1 inch diameter as standard the following table of breaking strains may serve to give a fair idea of general strengths of various materials. For safety sake ALWAYS regard the lowest figure as the breaking strain unless you know otherwise.

Green grass= 100 to 250 lbs.
Bark fiber= 500 to 1,500 lbs.
Palm fiber = 650 to 2,000 lbs. 
Sedges= 2,000 to 2,500 lbs.
Monkey ropes (liana)= 560 to 700 lbs.
Lawyer vine (calamus)*= 1/2 inch dia. = 1,200 lbs. Double the
diameter quadruple the breaking strain. Halve the diameter & you reduce the breaking strains to one-fourth. (1/4).

PRINCIPLE OF ROPE MAKING MATERIALS:
To discover whether a material is suitable for rope making it MUST HAVE 4 qualities: It MUST BE reasonably long in the fiber. It MUST HAVE strength. MUST BE pliable and MUST HAVE grip so that the fibers will bite onto one another.

3 SIMPLE TESTS:
There are 3 simple tests to find if any material is suitable; First pull on a length of the material to test it for strength. The second test via strength is to twist it between the fingers and roll the fibers together; if it will stand this and not snap apart tie a thumb knot in it and gently tighten the knot. If the material does not cut upon itself but allow the knot to be pulled taut then it is a suitable for rope making providing that the material will bite together and is not slippery or smooth. You will find these qualities in all sorts of plants in ground vines, in most of the longer grasses, in some of the water reeds and rushes, in the inner barks of many trees and shrubs and in the long hair or wool of many animals. Some green freshly gathered materials may be stiff or unyielding. When this is the case try passing it through hot flames for a few moments. The heat treatment should cause the sap to burst through some of the cell structure and the material thus becomes pliable.

Fibers for rope making may be obtained from many sources; Surface roots of many shrubs and trees have strong fibrous bark. Dead Inner bark of fallen branches of some species of trees and in the new growth of many trees such as willows. In the fibrous material of many water and swamp growing plants and rushes. In many species of grass and in many weeds (pot?!?). In some sea weeds. In fibrous material from leaves, stalks and trunks of many palms & in many fibrous leaved plants such as the aloes*.

GATHERING AND PREPARATION OF MATERIALS:
In some plants there may be a high content of vegetable gum and this can often be removed by soaking in water or by boiling or again by drying the material and teasing it into thin strips. Some of the materials have to be used green if any strength is required. The material that should be green include the sedges* water rushes* and should be cut NEVER pulled. Cutting above ground is harvesting but pulling up the plant= destruction. It is advisable no to denude an area entirely but to work over a wide area location and harvest the most suitable material leaving some for seeding and further growth. 

For the gathering of sedges and grasses be particularly careful therefore to harvest the material that is to cut what you require above the ground level and take only from the biggest clumps. By doing this you are not destroying the plant but rather aiding the natural growth since you are truly pruning. It is easiest method. Many of the strong leafed plants are deeply rooted and you can not simply pull a leaf off them.

Palm fiber in tropical and sub tropical area is harvested. You will find it at the junction of the leaf and the palm trunk or lying on the ground beneath many palms. Palm fiber is natural for making ropes and cord. Fibrous matter from the inner bark of trees and shrubs is generally more easily used if the plants is dead or half dead. Much of the natural gum will have dried up and when the material is being teased prior to spinning the gum or resin will fall out in fine powder.

There may be occasions when you will have to use the bark of green shrubs but AVOID this unless it is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL and cut only a branch here and there. NEVER cut a complete tree just because you want the bark for a length of rope.

TO MAKE A ROPE BY SPINNING WITH THE FINGERS:
Use any material with long strong threads or fibers which you have previously tested for strength and pliability. Gather the fibers into loosely held strands of even thickness. Each of these strands is twisted clockwise. The twist will hold the fibers together. The strand should be from 1/8 inch downwards for a rough and ready rule, there should be 15 to 20 fibers to a strand. 2, 3 or 4 of these strands are later twisted together and this twisting together or laying is done with an anti-clockwise twist while at the same time the separate strands which have not yet been laid up are twisted clockwise. Each strand MUST BE of equal twist and thickness. The person who twists the strands together is called the layer and he MUST see that the twisting is even. That the strands are uniform and that the tension on each strand is equal. In laying he MUST watch that each of the strand is evenly laid up that is that 1 strand does not twist around the other two. (A thing you'll find happening the first time you try to lay up.)

When spinning fine cords for fishing lines, snares etc. considerable care MUST BE taken to keep the strands uniform and the lay even. Fine thin cords of nor more than one thirty second of an inch thickness can be spun with the fingers and they are capable of taking a breaking strain of 20 to 30 lbs or more. Normally 2 or more people are required to spin and lay up the strands for a cord. Yet many natives when spinning cord do so unaided, twisting the material by running the flat of the hand along the thigh with the fibrous material between hand and thigh and with the free hand they feed in fiber for the next spin. By this means one person can make long length of single strands. This method of making cord or rope with the fingers is slow if any considerable length of cord is required.

A more simple and easy way to rapidly make lengths of rope of 50 to 100 yards or more in length is to make a rope walk and set up multiple spinners in the form of cranks. See photo * 259b. In a rope walk, each feeder holds the material under one arm and with one free hand feeds in into the strand which is being spun by the crank. The other hand lightly hold the fibers together till they are spun. As the slightly spun strands are increased in length they MUST BE supported on crossbars. DON'T let them lie on the ground. You can spin strand of 20 to 100 yards before laying up. Do not spin the material in too thickly. Thick strands do not help strength in any way rather they tend to make a weaker rope.

SETTING A ROPEWALK:
When spinning ropes of 10 yards or longer it IS NECESSARY to set crossbars every 2 or 3 yards to carry the strands as they are spun. If cross bars are not set up the strands or rope will sag to the ground and some of the fibers will tangle up with grass, twigs or dirt on the ground. Also the twisting of the free end may either be stopped or interrupted and the strand will be unevenly twisted. The easiest way to set up crossbars for the rope walk is to drive pairs of forked stakes into the ground about 6 feet apart and at intervals of about 6 to 10 feet. The crossbars MUST BE smooth and free from twigs and loose portions of bark that might twist in with the spinning strands. The crossbar "A" is supported by 2 uprights and pierced to take the cranks "B". * These cranks can be made out of natural sticks, mortised slab and peg or bent wire if available. The connecting rod "C" enables one man to turn all cranks clockwise simultaneously. Whatever turns your crank boy! Crossbars supporting the strands as they are spun are shown "D". A similar crank handle to "C" is supported on a fork stick at the end of the rope walk. This handle is turned in reverse (anti-clockwise) to the cranks "C" to twist the connected strands together. These are laid up by one or more of the feeders. ALWAYS MAKE IT A RULE TO TURN THE FIRST STRAND CLOCKWISE; then the laying up of the strands will be done anti-clockwise and the next laying will again be clockwise. Proof that your rope is well made will be if the individual fibers lie lengthways along the rope. In the process of laying up the strands, the actual twisting together or laying will take some of the original twist out of the strands which has not yet been laid. Therefore it IS NECESSARY to keep twisting the strands whilst laying together. When making a rope too long to be spun and laid in one piece, a section is laid up and coiled on the ground at the end of the rope walk farthest from the cranks. Strands for a second length are spun and these strands are married or spliced into the strands of the first section and then the laying up of the second section continues the rope. The actual marrying of the strands is done only in the last lay which when completed makes the rope. The ends where the strands are married should be staggered in different places. By this means rope can be made and extended in section of great length. After your complete length of rope is laid up. Pass it through fire to burn off the loose ends and fibers. This will make your rope smooth and most professional looking.

LAYING THE STRANDS: 
The strands lie on the crossbars as they are spun. When the strands have been spun to the required length which should be more than about a 100 feet they are joined together by being held at the far end. They are then ready for laying together. The turner who is facing the cranks twists the ends together anti-clockwise at the same time keeping his full weight on the rope end which is being laid up. The layer advances placing the strands side by side as they turn. Laying up is very fast when the layer is experienced. He quickly gets the feeling of the work. It is important to learn to feed the material evenly, and lay up slowly thereby getting a smooth even rope. Do not try to rush the rope making. If you do you will have uneven, badly spun strands and ugly lays and poor rope. Speed in rope making only comes with practice. At first it will take a team of 3 or 4 up to 2 or more hours to make a 50 yard length of rope of 3 lays, each of 3 strands. That is 9 strands for a rope with a finished diameter of about 1 inch. With practice the same 3 or 4 people will make the same rope in 15 to 20 minutes. These times do not include the time for gathering the material. In feeding the free ends of the strands twist in the loose material fed in by the feeder. The feeder MUST move backwards at a speed governed by the rate at which he feeds. As the feeder moves backwards he MUST keep a slight tension on the strands.

MAKING ROPE WITH A SINGLE SPINNER:
2 people can make a rope using a single crank. A portion of the material is fastened to the eye of the crank as with the multiple crank and the feeder holding the free end of this trend against the bundle of loose material under his arm feeds in, walking backwards. Supporting crossbars as used in ropewalk are required when a length of more than 20 or 30 feet is being spun.

FEEDING:
If the feeder is holding material under his left arm, his right hand is engaged in continuously pulling material forward to his left hand which feeds it into the turning strand. These actions done together as the feeder walks backwards govern the thickness of the strands. ( His left hand lightly closed over the loose turning material MUST feel the fibers binding or twisting together.)

THICKNESS OF STRANDS:
Equal thickness for each of the strands throughout their length & equal twist are important. The thickness should not be greater than IS NECESSARY with the material being used. For grass rope the strand should not be more than 1/4 inch in diameter for coarse bark or palm not more than 1/8 to 3/16 and for fine bark or hair or sisal fiber not more than 1/8 inch. For cords the strand should be NO MORE THAN 1/16 inch diameter. Fine cords cannot be made from grass unless the fibers are separated by beating out and combing. The correct amount of twist is when the material is hard that is the twist is tight.

FAULTS COMMON WITH BEGINNERS:
There is a tendency with the beginner to feed unevenly. This wispy sections of strand are followed by thick husky portions. Such feeding is useless. Rope made from such strands will break off with less than 1/4 of the possible strain from the material. The beginner is wise to twist and feed slowly and to make regular even strands rather than rush the job and try & make the strand quickly. Speed with uniformity of twist and thickness come only with practice. In a short time when you have the feel of feeding you will find you can feed at the rate of from 30 to 60 feet/min. Thick strands do NOT help. IT IS USELESS TO TRY AND SPIN A ROPE FROM STRANDS AN INCH OR MORE IN THICKNESS. Such a rope will break with less than half the potential strain of the material. Spinning thick strands does not save time in rope making.

LIANA, VINES & CANES: 
Liana and ground vines are natural ropes and grow in sub-tropical regions scrub and jungle. Many are of great strength and USEFUL for bridging, tree climbing etc. The smaller ground vines when plaited give great strength and flexibility.

Canes and stalks of palms provide excellent material if used properly. Only the outer skin is tough and strong and this skin will split off easily if you bend the main stalk away from the skin. This principle applies to the splitting of layer cane (calamus*), all the palm leaf stalks and all green material. If the split start to run off, you MUST bend the material away from the thin side & then it will gradually gain in size and come back to an even thickness with the other split side.

BARK FIBERS: 
The fibers in many barks which a suitable for rope making are close to the innermost layer. This the bark next to the sap wood. When seeking suitable barks of green timber, cut a small section about 3 inches long and an inch wide. Cut this portion right from the wood to the outer skin of the bark. Peel this specimen and test the different layers. Green bark fibers are generally difficult to spin because of the gum and it is better to search around for wind fallen dead branches. And to try the inner bark of these. The gum will probably have leached out and the fibers separate very easily. Many shrubs have excellent bark fiber and here it is advisable to cut the end of branch and peel of a strip of bark for testing. Thin barks from green shrubs are sometime difficult to spin into fine cord and it is then easier to use the #lariat plait# for small cords. Where IS NECESSARY to use green bark fiber for rope spinning if time permits you will find that the gum will generally wash out when the bark is teased and soaked in water for a day or so. After removing from the water allow the bark strips to partly dry out before shredding and teasing into fiber.

PLATING:
One many may need a considerable length of rope and if he has no assistance to help him spin his material. One can often find reasonably long material (1 to 3 feet or more) and using this material he can plait or braid and so make a suitable rope. The usual 3 plait makes a flat rope and while quite good, has not the finish or shape nor is it as tight as the 4 or #lariat plait#. On other occasion it may be necessary to plait broad bands for belts or for shoulder straps. A general rule for all plaits is to work form the outside in to the center.

3 PLAIT:
Take the right hand strand and pass it over the strand to the left. Then take the left hand strand and pass it over the strand to the right and repeat alternatively from left to right.

FLAT 4 PLAIT: 
Lay the 4 strand side by side. The right hand strand and lay it over the strand to the left. Now take the outside left hand strand and lay it under the next strand to itself and over what was the first strand. Now take what is now the outside right hand strand and lay it over the first strand to its left. *Take the outside left strand and put it under and over the next 2 strands respectively moving toward the right. Thereafter your right hand strand goes over one strand to the left and your left hand strand under and over to the right.

BROAD PLAIT:
To start, take 6 or 7 or more strands and hold them flat together. Take a stand in the center and pass it over the next strand to the left. Take the second strand in the center to the left and pass it towards the right over the strand you first took so that it points toward the right over the strand you first took so that it points towards the right. Now take the next strand to the first one & weave it under and over.

Weave the next strands from left and right alternatively towards the center. The finishing plait should be tight and close it.

ROUND OR LARIAT PLAIT: 4 STRANDS:

1) Lay the 4 strands together side by side as in fig 1 and cross the right hand center strand over and then around the left hand strand.
2) Take the left hand outside strand & pass it over the 2 crossed strands and then under the right hand one of the 2 so that it is pointing towards the left.
3) Take the free right hand strand and pass it over the 2 twisted strands to the left & completely round the left hand one of the 2. 
4) Repeat this with the outside left hand strand.
5) Repeat with the right hand strand.

CAUTION: ALWAYS TEST IT.

Prior to trusting your life to a bush made rope, ALWAYS TEST IT. Use your mother in law or this lousy travel agent. Tie one end to a tree and put 3 or 4 fellows onto the other end, hang your mother in law, if it works then it is good (don't do this). Have them take the strain gently until finally all their weight is on the rope. If they can not break it then is it is safe for one man at time to use it to climb or descend a cliff face. When climbing up a bush made rope ALWAYS use the foot lock *p261 & when descending. NEVER slide down the rope. Climb down using the same foot lock to AVOID burns. The foot lock offers a measure of safety and the climber is so secure that he can actually stand on the rope and rest without his body weight being carried entirely on his arms. To prove this, use the foot lock and clasp the rope to your body with your arms. You will find that you are standing on the rope and quite secure.

FOOT LOCK: 
By means of the foot lock you can climb to any height on the ropes, stopping to rest when your arms tire. The foot lock is made by holding onto the rope with both hands lifting the knees and kicking the rope to the outside of one foot. The foot on the opposite side to the rope is pointed so that the toe picks up the rope which is pulled over the foot which was against the rope and under the instep of the foot which picked it up. The 2 feet are brought together and the rope is now over the instep of one foot & under the ball of the other. Then to secure the grip and lock the rope the feet are place one on top of the other so that the rope is clamped down by the foot on top. By straightening the knees and rising the hands the body is lifted and a fresh grab taken for the next rise. In descending the body is bent the hands lowered and the foot lock released and a fresh grip taken with the feet at a lower level on the rope. It is advisable to wear boots or shoes when climbing bush made ropes. This method of descending is much SAFER than sliding. In sliding there is grave risk of bad rope burns to hands or legs.

ROPE MAKING: TIP 2 
Vines, grasses, rushes, bark, palms and animal hairs can all be used to make rope or line. The tendons from animals legs also make good strings, but they tend to dry hard (very USEFUL for binding on arrow and spear heads). The stems of nettles make first class ropes and those of Honeysuckle can be twisted together to make light lashing. The stronger the fiber, the stronger the rope. Some stiff fibers can be made flexible by steaming or by warming. While pliable vines and other long plants stems can often be used, as they are, for short term purposes, they may become brittle as they dry out. A rope made from plant fibers twisted (spun) or plaited together will be more durable.

SOURCES OF FIBERS:

NETTLES: (URTICA DIOICA)
They are an excellent source of fibers but require preparation. Choose the oldest available plants and those with the longest stems. Soak them in water for 24 hours, then lay them on the ground and pound them with a smooth stone. This will shred the outer surface exposing the fibrous centre. Tease and comb to remove the fleshy matter. Hang to dry. When dry, remove and discard the outer layer. (Spin) fibers into long threads. Plaiting or twisting together to make as strong rope.

PALMS:
Usually provide a good fiber. Leaves, trunks and stalks can all be used. The husk of coconut is used commercially to make ropes and matting.

DOGBANE:
Stems also provide good fibers, with which it is easy to work.

BARKS: 
Willow bark especially produces very good fiber. Use the new growth from young trees. The dead inner bark of fallen trees and tree branches should not be overlooked. But if the tree has been down too long it may have decayed too much, so test it for strength. 

ROOTS: 
The surface roots of many trees make good lashings. Those that run just under, or even on the surface are often pliable and strong. The roots of the Spruce are very strong. The Indians of North America used them to sew Birch bark together to make canoes.

LEAVES: 
Plants such as those of the Lily family, especially Aloes have very fibrous leaves. Test by tearing one apart. If it separates into stringy layers it can provide fibers to make into ropes. Soak to remove the fleshy parts.

RUSHES, SEDGES & GRASSES: 
Should be used when still green. Pick the longest specimens available.

ANIMAL TENDONS: 
Are USEFUL for tying one thing to another. THEY MUST BE USED WET.

SPLITTING CANES:
BAMBOO, RATTAN AND OTHER TYPES OF CANES, VINES AND BARK; All need to be split to be used for any kind of rope making. If you try to pull away thin strips, these tend to run away to nothing. To AVOID this problem pull on the thick part to separate it from the thin. It saves both time and ENERGY.

TESTING FIBERS: 
Tie 2 lengths together using an overhand knot. Try pulling it apart, using a reasonable amount of strength. If it snaps the fiber is too brittle. If it is too smooth, it will slip apart. Suitable fiber will "Bite ME BABY!" and hold together well.

PLAITING ROPE:
An easy method for the less experienced is to twist and plait strands. If you make 3 thin plaits, these can be plaited together again for thicker, stronger rope. If you are lengthening the strands as you plait, stagger the places at which you feed in new fibers. Take a bundle of fibers, tie the ends together, anchor it firmly and split into 3 separates strands (*a) Bring the left strand into the center(*b) then the right over it (*c). Then bring what is now the left strand to the center(*d) & so on (*e-f) Keep twisting the strands & keep the plaiting as tight and even as you can make it.

SPINNING A ROPE:
Twist fibers together (shown here clockwise, but what is important is to keep to the same direction). Feed in lengths of new fibers as you go so that their ends are staggered. When you have produced 3 lengths of fiber, anchor all 3 at one end and continue to twist each of them until quite tight. Temporarily fastening a toggle to the end of each will make twisting easier. Now draw all 3 strands together and twist all three clockwise - the opposite direction. Continue to add and twist until you have produced the amount of rope you needed. You will need to secure a completed section in a cleft stick to keep it tight as you work. Wrap the rope around a tree trunk to keep the working length short. To make a thicker rope repeat the process with 3 ropes you have already made or plait 3 simple ropes together.

REMEMBER: 
When making a rope try to keep the thickness of the strands equal and even along their lengths. It is where a lay has a thin section that the rope is most likely to break.

WHIPPING ROPES:
The end of a rope MUST BE secured in some way so that it does not unravel. To prevent the strands from fraying, bind the rope with twine. Good binding or "whipping" MUST BE tight and neat to be effective. If it is too slack it will work loose of fall off. It is difficult to make a good whipping with thick cord and very***? this is prone to slip. Experience will enable you to match the thickness to the job. Use the whipping techniques to add a comfortable grip to handles of axes and parangs or, thicker to replace handle of a knife. 

1) Lay a length of twine along the side of the rope, leaving its end (*a) projecting a hand's length beyond the rope's end.
2) Whip the twine (*b) around the rope, working towards the end, and gradually covering the piece you have laid along it.
3) Now form the loose end of the twine (*a) into a loop and lay it back along the whipped section.
4) Carry on with the whipping covering the loop until you have nearly reached the end of the rope.
5) Now pass the end (*b) whipping through the loop and pull the short end (*A) tight. Trim off ends neatly.

TOOLS:
Before humans discovered metals and learned to work them, tools were made from stone-especially flint, obsidian, quartz, chertz and other glassy rocks, bone and other natural objects. Stones can make efficient hammers, alone or lashed on to a handle if a shape that can be easily secured. The glassy stones can be knapped (chipped and flaked) to make a sharp edge; some other kinds of stone, such as slate, can also produce a knife edge, though they may not have the strength to be used for percussive blows. The best start for a stone implement is a split cobble, perhaps from a stream bed, or split by a blow from another smooth, hard pebble, so that a flat face is produced. The blow should be at an angle of less than 90 degrees or the shock will be absorbed within the pebble. Once the split is made, other layers can be broken off. Flakes can be removed around the edge of the flat face by hitting edge-on with another stone. Delicate work can be produced by hitting and pressing with a softer tool such as deer's antler. If a flat face is produced end-on blows can make thin blades. Making stone implements is not a skill that can be quickly acquired and you may have to be very persistent. Bones can be used as tools-antlers and horns make USEFUL digging implements gougers and hammers. They can also be cut with stone tools or ground with coarse stones. You may have the advantage over the prehistoric tool-makers, whose skills you are copying, of having a knife or other metal implement to help you to carve bone. Some woods, such as the Mulga tree of Australia, used by the Aborigines for spears, are hard enough to make effective blades for hunting and cutting.

STONE TOOLS:
One technique for producing an axe-head: First the stone is split and the edges partly shaped. Then a platform is created on one side from which a series of flakes can be struck vertically down. The final shaping can then be done. Hit with a softer stones, and hit and press small flakes away with a piece of antler or hard wood. It may take a lot of patience to acquire tool making skills but even practice flakes may be USEFUL as scrapers, for cutting edges & as arrowheads.

BONE TOOLS:
A shoulder blade provides a good shape for an effective saw. First it should be split in half, then teeth can be cut along it with a knife. A small bone scraper could also be made, the edge ground sharp. Ribs are good bones for shaping into points.

BONE NEEDLE: 
Choose a suitably bone or flake of bone and sharpen to a point. Burn an eye with a piece of hot wire, or lacking that, scrape with a knife point or piece of flint. DON'T heat the knife in the fire.

Tool Tips:

Channel lock pliers make good pot holders.

Make an oven by lining a moving box with aluminum foil and pushing coat hangers through both sides about half way up the box to form your grill. Put coals in a pan and put the pan on three stones on the bottom of the box. Close the doors (lid) and bake away.

Canning rings can be use to cook your eggs in for egg sandwiches. (Works well for English Muffins or Hamburger buns).

Nylon rope can be used as shoe laces.

Use a large zip lock plastic bag, filled with air, as a pillow.

Plastic butter tubs make good storage containers for your camp kitchen. (Not a good idea to use in a backpack).

A plastic bottle makes a good latrine for cold weather camping. (You don't have to 'go' very far from your sleeping bag). Keep it just out side the tent flap.

An old closed cell foam exercise pad will make a passable sleeping pad.

Plastic bottles can be used for canteens. Make sure the lid does not leak before using in a backpack.

The pins which hold the backpack and shoulder straps to the frame can be replaced with a small piece of coat hanger threaded through the hole and twisted around itself.

Twist ties can be used to hold up another tarp from your dining fly to form a wind screen.

A small automotive water hose clamp can be used as a stop for your dining fly's upright poles.

Drill a hole in the bottom of nested poles and put a screw in to stop inner poles from sliding out.

Short lengths of coat hanger or wire can be thread through the holes and springs of the summer camp cots to replace the missing springs.

Carry several pieces of lumber cut into 2 inch squares to summer camp and use these to level platform, tent and cot.

If for health reasons you must sleep on a cot in cold weather insulate yourself from the cold air under the cot with several layers of newspaper.

Old shower curtains make great ground clothes.

Make a double boiler for melting paraffin from a 1 lb. coffee can and a 2 lb. coffee can. Bend a coat hanger so it will support the 1 lb. coffee can inside the 2 lb. can. Pour some water in the 2 lb. can and put the paraffin in the 1 lb. can.

Waterproof matches by dipping in melted paraffin.

Make fire starters by filling paper condiment cups with saw dust and pouring paraffin into the cup.

Put matches in corrugated cardboard strips (about every other hole) and dip into paraffin for fire starters. Cut off what you need to start a fire.

If your hand warmer came without a bag or the bag has been lost, replace the bag with a sock.

A length of chain and a piece of coat hanger bent into an S-shape will allow you to hang your lantern from a tree limb.

Use a cookie tin as a Dutch oven.

Keep batteries in an appropriate size prescription bottle to insure that they cannot run themselves down by accident.

Prescription bottles make good match safes.

Prescription bottles or 35mm file containers make good storage places for small items.

Grills from old ovens can be used for fire grills, refrigerator shelves cannot be used as they will release toxic gasses when heated.

A Frisbee will add support to paper plates when the plate is place inside the Frisbee.

Make a camp washing machine from a five gallon bucket and a toilet plunger.

Placing a plastic garbage bag over logs in a triangle will create a wash basin.

Making a slit in a trash bag large enough to let your head through will make an emergency poncho.

Laundry lint makes good tinder.

Cutting slivers off scrap lumber and heating in the oven to dry out the wood will produce some very dry tinder. Remember to store in plastic bags for your next trip. Save candle stubs for fire starters or to use as paraffin to make other fire starters.

Insulate your backpacking stove from the ground in cold weather with a 6" X 6" piece of plywood.

Cover the ice in a picnic cooler with foil to help it last longer. Keep the water in your canteen cooler by wrapping the canteen in foil.

Use foil ring dividers for frying eggs. Put rings in the greased pan and drop eggs into each ring.

Find it hard to put patches on straight ? Tape them in place first with two-sided tape. When you are half-way done sewing, remove the tape. 

Save a handbook that's getting battered looking by putting on a transparent contact paper cover.

Run candle stubs along the edge of a saw to help it glide better.

When it comes time to pack up at the end of a camp, a wet toothbrush, face cloth and bar of soap wrapped in foil won't dampen the other things in your kit.

To prevent night accidents in camp, use phosphorescent paint to mark the edges of latrines, the top of corner pegs of tents, etc.

Before starting to sew a tough material like denim or canvas, stick the needle into a bar of soap. The coating will help the needle slide more easily through the fabric.

To make sure you don't sew a pocket together while sewing a badge to the front, slip a jar lid, preferably plastic, into the pocket, then fearlessly sew away.

To help shed burrs easily, rub the laces of your hiking boots with paraffin before hitting the trail.

Keep a dry bar of soap in your sleeping bag to combat musty odors which develop during damp-season camping.

Waxed milk cartons are an excellent source of emergency kindling. Cut cartons into slivers, wrap a bundle of them in plastic and carry them along in your pack.

If a Scout has to take medicine, give him a break by letting him suck on an ice cube to numb his tongue before swallowing the vile stuff.

Ice cubes are handy when you have to remove a splinter from a hand or foot. Use the ice to numb the area around the splinter before operating.

Make your own insect-repelling candle from an ordinary thick candle. Drill a 1" deep hole near the wick, fill the whole with citronella and cover it with melted wax.

When handling evergreens or pine cones, they can remove the sticky sap from their hands easily if they use baking soda instead of soap to wash.

Water proof matches by dipping them in nail polish.

To prevent batteries from wearing down if a flashlight is accidentally nudged on while you're traveling, put the flashlight batteries in backwards.

Kitchen foil can add extra warmth to your boots. Trace each foot on a piece of foil and add a 5 cm border. Place the foil inside your boots, shiny side up so you benefit from radiant heat.

The little plastic tags from bread and bun packages are great for pinning up wet bathing suits and towels at camp, and they take up a lot less packing space than clothespins.

To protect your feet from blisters, smear soap on the inside of your inner sock at the heel and underneath the toes. Carry along a bar of soap and, when you feel your feet become tender, give it a try.

Wear nylon footies next to your feet to help prevent blisters.

To keep mosquitoes away rub the inside of an orange peel on face, arms and legs.

Waxed-paper milk cartons have several lives left in them after the milk is gone:
- make a drinking cup by cutting off the carton about three inches from the bottom.
- make a water scoop by cutting off the top.
- cut a container into slivers, wrap in plastic and put in your pocket for emergency kindling 
- make a leak-proof mini-garbage can by opening up the top of the container and putting in your scraps.

Discarded roll on deodorant bottles make an excellent insect repellent applicator because it enables you to keep 'bug dope' off your hands and out of your eyes. Snap off the plastic top or snap out the ball, rinse out the bottle and refill with your favorite liquid repellant.

Make handy fire-starters by filling egg carton cups with lint from the dryer and pouring melted paraffin over the lint. Break the cup off to start each fire.

Keep your toilet roll dry by packing it in a coffee tine with a snap-on lid.

Remember that mosquitoes and biting flies seem to like dark colored clothing and the perfumed scents of many grooming products (soaps, shampoos, colognes, etc.) Dress so that you won't attract the biters, and try using unscented grooming aids.

Certain fibers can be damaged by insect repellants. Don't apply repellants to spandex (from which bathing suits are made), rayon, or Dynel fabrics. Tent fabrics, plastic and painted surfaces also can be damaged by insect repellents.

An insect repellant will not keep bees, wasps, or hornets from stinging you. Your wisest move is one away from stinging pests.

Try using a 35mm film canister when collecting insect specimens. A drop of alcohol makes the canister a fine killing jar. Label the canister with tape and keep the specimen in it.

It is easier to cut plastic containers if you soak them in very hot water immediately before cutting them.

Wrap fishing gear in foil to keep line from tangling and hooks from rusting. By lining the compartments of a tackle box with foil, you can prevent rust damage to plugs and other equipment.

Wrap a wet washcloth in a foil package and put it into your pack. You'll have a handy 'wet-wipe' for cleaning hands and face after a satisfying camp meal.

Foil provides good packaging material for a campers personal toilet articles.

Waterproof matches by dipping them in shellac.

To remove musty smell from canteen, put three teaspoons of baking soda into the canteen with a bit of water. Swish it around and let sit for an hour, then rinse out the canteen.

An empty plastic soda bottle, cut off to a convenient height, will work as a camp bowl. You may want to sandpaper the cut to smooth the edge.

Make a survival fishing kit out of an empty 35mm film canister. Wrap fishing line around a small empty thread spool. Tie the end to a fishhook, and place in the canister. When ready to use, take the spool of line out. Lay the line across the opening of the canister and snap the lid back on for use as a bobber.

Make a fish scaler by nailing metal bottle caps to a wood block. Scrape against side of fish against direction of scales.

Make a flag stand using a 2 pound coffee can filled with cement. To make hold, wrap flag pole in wax paper.

To conserve rope, mark each length of rope with a distinctive color and make a rule that the rope is never cut.

A rope tied to a bleach bottle with an inch of water in it will make an effective water rescue throw line.

Save inner cardboard tubes from kitchen and toilet rolls, stuff with waste paper and use as fire-lighters.

Cut a rubber glove, when discarded, into thin strips to create varied rubber bands.

Did you know that the egg whites left in empty egg shells makes good glue ? Use it for scrapbooks, etc.

When using a bucket for a messy job, line it with a plastic bag which can be thrown away afterwards.

Do the handles get hot on those old cooking pots you take camping ? Buy plastic coated fuse wire and make a neat job of winding it all along the handle, tuck the ends in.

A large sheet of plastic, carried on long trips, is useful in many ways - from ground sheet to an impromptu tent. Similarly, always carry a folded plastic bag for taking home interesting finds, for carrying water in emergencies, etc.

Give your boys a head start on spring. Cut off large plastic bleach or detergent bottles, fill the base with soil and use it as a starter tray for seedlings.

Small seedling trays or pots can be fashioned from aluminum foil.

Slit a piece of old garden hose lengthwise to use as a sheath for your saw or axe, use twist ties to hold it on the saw blade or axe.

Make mini-fuzz sticks from wooden kitchen matches. Leave the heads on to strike the match. (A very sharp knife is a must for this.)

Save your wooden kitchen matches after you use them, they can be used as tinder for your next fire.

Carry some sanitary napkins in your first aid kit. They are inexpensive, sterile and very absorbent. Use them as compresses to stop bleeding.

Pants legs from old jeans can be made into stuff sacks by sewing up one end.

A 25-gallon oil drum cut in half (watch for sharp edges) and placed on cinder blocks will make a good fire container when you cannot have fires on the ground or in high winds. A wire mesh can be placed over the top to allow cooking or contain sparks.

Soak charcoal briquettes in paraffin to make fire starters.

A metal trash can may be used as a water heater by placing it on cinder blocks over a fire. Install a metal faucet near the bottom of the can to make it easier to draw off the water.

A pop top liquid soap container can be used to store vegetable oil. (Be sure to make the contents of the container on the outside.)

When travelling you can heat frozen TV dinners on the manifold of your car.

Deepen a shallow pan with heavy duty aluminum foil.

Make fire starter from paper condiment cups filled with saw dust and melted paraffin.

Waterproof your own matches by dipping them in melted paraffin.

Use candle stubs as fire starters.

Glue your whetstone to a wood base to hold onto instead of the stone itself. This will help to protect your fingers when sharpening your knife.

Use a 9-volt transistor radio battery and fine steel wool to start a fire by laying the steel wool across the battery terminals. (If carrying a battery, make sure the terminals are not crossed by keys, coins, etc. in your pocket by putting it in a large empty medicine bottle.)

Put matches in corrugated cardboard strips (about every other hole) and dip into paraffin for fire starters. Cut off what you need to start a fire.

Add a cap full of carburetor cleaner to the tank of your white gas stove every once in a while when you fill it. This will help reduce the gum deposits and help keep the generator clean.

One of the 2 1/2 gallon compressed air insect sprayers can be used as a shower, it is not wise to use one that has been used with insecticide.

Old worn out nylon tents can be recycled as stuff bags, tent bags, bear bags, etc., with a seam across the bottom and up the side to form a bag. If you want a draw string just sew the top over on itself and thread a thin nylon rope through the hole. Use a coat hanger to do the threading.

If you have stored your white gas stove with the fuel in it for a long period of time, empty and refill the tank, water and gum deposits will effect the efficiency of the stove.

A couple of drops of vegetable oil can revive the leather or rubber gasket in your lantern or stove long enough for you to finish the trip. Replace the plunger unit as soon as possible as there is a limit to the number of times this trick will work.

Use zip-lock bags for mixing foods, be sure it is closed tight and the top is held shut before shaking or kneading.

Recycle your torn dining tarps as ground cloths or make stuff sacks out of them.

Remember to use seam sealer on any seam to waterproof the sack.

Use ski bags to hold your dining tarp, poles, pegs and ropes together. They are relatively inexpensive at the end of ski season.

Aluminum foil can be shaped into bowls, cups, plates, etc. in an emergency or for ease of cleaning. Remember to recycle the used utensils.

Duct tape can be used to repair most everything on a trip. Use it to patch tents, mend poles, hold up schedules, patch torn shoes, hold poles for mosquito nets to cots, etc.

Make a box for your binder's twine. String the twine through a hold in the top of the box. This will keep you from having multiple ends and tangling. Mark the box in inches so twine can be measure to reduce waste.

Mark your dining tarps dimensions on the edge so you know which tarp is which without having to unfold them.

If you want to make some tin can stoves, pans, pots, etc., a good source of the large tin cans are restaurants, cafeterias, and catering services.

When making your own equipment it is an idea to prototype the design in cardboard or paper to get an idea of the size you want. When sizing, remember that smaller boys will also have to move and use the equipment. Keep it as small and light as possible.

Melt snow in a black trash bag by filling the bag with snow and laying the bag in direct sun. (Water can be warmed up by the same method.)

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