You Are Here:<Contents>>Home Page>>Outdoor Survival>>Clothing, Gear, Kits & Lists>>Big List

MORE SURVIVAL KITS! 
These kits may very well duplicate themselves with previous survival kit list. If that is the case then delete whatever you don't want!

Surviving a life-threatening situation will generally require several elements, including the will to survive and a proper mental attitude, physical fitness, knowledge and skills (survival skills, first aid, wild plant identification, land navigation, knotmaking, etc), and, finally, tools (which could include survival manuals). Anyone who focuses solely on tools without developing the other elements may come to regret it.

These lists are nothing more than a reference tool for you to create your own survival kit. Your first step should be to stop and THINK. For what emergencies am I preparing? How long am I likely to be on my own? How much space do I have and how much weight can I carry? How much am I willing to spend?

For instance, I live in eastern Virginia, which is reasonably populated, so I believe there is little chance that I would ever be on my own for more than five days. Needless to say, if I lived or traveled in Alaska or Western states with vast open spaces, I would have to change my assumptions dramatically! Similarly, when I go winter camping, I bring extra supplies in the event I get snowed in.

Next, you must determine the size and weight of your kit(s). If you are assembling something to keep in your pocket or briefcase, you will probably have few tools and those that you have will be of a miniature variety (ie, a wire saw). On the other hand, a tool-box sized kit for your vehicle might contain a heavier and more durable folding saw.

Finally, you must think about how much you are willing to spend. If your total budget is $100, it would be imprudent to spend $70 on a Leatherman Super Tool. You might be better off picking up a used USAF survival knife for $10. On the other hand, quality matters, so don't be mislead by cheap low-quality gear. Try to make sure each item has more than one use. And KISS!

Since this is my compendium, I will begin with my list:

(1) Survival Kit from Penrith Survival Equipment (contents listed below), wrapped in plastic and sealed, in one pocket; [add extra hooks]

(2) Ziplock bag in another pocket contains: space blanket, thin pea-less plastic whistle, disposable cigarette lighter, several water purification tablets, pencil stub, bandages, some Spectra fishing line (high tensile strength and I can sew with it), waterproof matches, needles, knife. I will soon add a teeny-tiny bottle of 100% DEET because I am sensitive to insect bites;

(3) depending on what I'm doing I would supplement with: first aid kit, larger "storm" whistle, large 5" sheath knife (Busse Combat Knives), mini-hatchet (Safety Pocket Ax from A.G. Russell (800) 255-9034 may not be available), flashlight, water purification tablets, food, water filter-straw, snares, 550 cord, book on edible plants.

To the degree possible, I like to split the contents among the pockets of my parka or use a discreet all-black fanny pack.

Will I be COMFORTABLE in the woods with just this? No. Will I be ALIVE in the woods with just this? No guarantees, but these tools help give me a fighting chance!

THE SAS SURVIVAL HANDBOOK John Wiseman
Survival Kit (Pocket-Size):
Matches, Candle, Flint, Magnifying Glass, Needles and Thread, Fishhooks and Line, Compass, Beta Light, Snare Wire, Flexible Saw (wire saw)

Medical Kit:
Pain reliever, intestinal sedative, antibiotic, antihistamine, water sterilizing tablets, anti-malaria tablets, potassium permanganate, Surgical Blades, Butterfly Sutures, Plasters (Band-Aids), Condom

Survival Pouch (larger kit):
Mess Tin, Fuel, Flashlight, Flares, Marker Panel (surveyor's tape?), Matches

Brew Kit (tea kit)
[Those Brits! Of course, it's easy to make fun of this item, but peace of mind in an emergency is an important consideration. For you it may be cards, smokes, or even a harmonica]
Clear Plastic Bag, Food, Knife & sharpener ...all in a waterproof pouch 

THE URBAN SURVIVAL HANDBOOK John Wiseman
Standard Kit:
Paper Money, Coins, Phone card, Paper and pencil stub, Needle and Thread, Tiny Flashlight, Safety Pins, Tweezers, Tiny Scissors, Aspirin/Pacetamol, Scalpel blade, Magnifying lens, Bandages, Whistle... and add to it your personal necessities: tiny screwdriver, antihistamine tablets, other medicines, tampons, condoms, spare contact lenses, matches

THE BACKPACKER'S HANDBOOK Hugh McManners
Useful Equipment:
Swiss Army Knife, can opener, map, waterproof matches, flashlight, compass, map, binoculars

Survival Kit:
Fishing line, scalpel, pencil stub, safety pins, thin wire, mirror, wire saw, fishing hooks and sinkers, potassium permanganate, sewing kit (large-eyed needles, waterproof thread, large buttons), clear plastic bag [multiple uses include putting around tree branches in bright sunlight to produce water], button compass, antibiotics, magnifying glass, salt, bandages, water sterilizers, matches, ...in a storage tin. [the Editor suggests you consider skipping the pencil stub and instead use an ink-pen refill cartridge. The best would be from Fisher Space Products in Boulder City Nevada (702) 293-3011 because they are sealed, write well under adverse conditions, and won't rub off like pencil.] 

BACKPACKER MAGAZINE June 1995
Always carry:
Knife, lighter, garbage bag, water bottles, high-energy food, map & compass, rain gear, warm clothes, signal whistle & mirror, medical kit, sunglasses, flashlight (headlamp) with spare batteries & bulb, firestarter, iodine, emergency kit (fishhooks, nylon cord, etc) 

COMMON SENSE SURVIVAL FOR OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS Bob Newman
[mini guide to surviving for 5 days]

Five-Day Survival Kit:
First Aid - 6 2"x2" gauze pads, 6 4"x4" gauze pads, roll of standard medical gauze tape, assortment of povidone iodine wipes, eye patch, antibiotic/antiseptic cream, package of steri-strips, moleskin, bandage scissors & tweezers, 1 3" elastic bandage, 1 3" gauze roller bandage, Sawyer brand Extractor Kit (snake & insect bites), 2 cravats

Signals - sturdy plastic whistle, pencil flare launcher with 6 flares, shatterproof signal mirror, sturdy flashlight with extra batteries, extra bullets/shells if you have a firearm, several strips (3"x12") international orange cloth

Fire - 1 35mm film canister with cotton balls coated with petroleum jelly, magnesium block with striker, commercial tinder sticks, magnifying glass, butane lighter, waterproof container of wooden "strike anywhere" kitchen matches

Food and Water - 100 yards 15 lb. test fishing line, hooks, mostly small, 1 packaged prepared catfish/scavenger bait, 1 bottle Potable Aqua brand, halazone, or iodine tabs for H20, 10' surgical tubing, 2 plastic collapsible containers, 1 clear plastic bag, large, 1 dry compressed sponge (unused)

Shelter - 1 solar blanket, 50' parachute cord, several chemical heat packs, wire saw, 1 8'x8' tarp, reflective on one side, 3 survival candles

Other - fixed or lock-blade knife, Silva compass, topographic map, spare eyeglasses/sunglasses, spare wool hat, aspirin or Tylenol, prescription medicine, other items unique to your needs

SURVIVAL FM-2176 June 1992 (US Army)
Issues to think about: (p 3-3) - first-aid, water purification, fire starting, signaling, food procurement, shelter

Items to include: (p 3-3) - lighter, metal match, waterproof matches, snare wire, signal mirror, wrist compass, fish and snare line, fishhooks, candle, small hand lens, oxy-tetracycline tablets (diarrhea or infection), water purification tablets, solar blanket, surgical blades, butterfly sutures, condoms for water storage, 
chap stick, needle & thread, knife

SURVIVAL KITS (Appendix A):
COLD Climate Kit - food packets, snare wire, smoke, illumination signals, waterproof match box, saw/knife blade, wood matches, first-aid kit, MC-1 magnetic compass, pocket knife, saw-knife-shovel handle, frying pan, illuminating candles, compressed trioxane fuel, signal mirror, survival fishing kit, plastic spoon, survival manual (AFM 64-5), poncho, insect head net, shovel, water bag, packing list, sleeping bag

HOT Climate Kit - canned drinking water, waterproof matchbox, plastic whistle, smoke, illumination signals, pocket knife, signal mirror, plastic water bag, first-aid kit, sunscreen, plastic spoon, food packets, compressed trioxane fuel, fishing tackle kit, MC-1 magnetic compass, snare wire, frying pan, wood matches, insect head net, reversible sun hat, tool kit, kit, packing list, tarp, survival manual (AFM 64-5)

OVERWATER Kit - kit, packing list, raft boat paddle, survival manual (AFM 64-5), insect head net, reversible sun hat, water storage bag, MC-1 magnetic compass, boat bailer, sponge, sunscreen, wood matches, first aid kit, plastic spoon, pocket knife, food packets, fluorescent sea marker, frying pan, seawater desalter kit, compressed trioxane fuel, smoke, illumination signals, signal mirror, fishing tackle kit, water proof match box, raft repair kit

SURVIVAL: A MANUAL THAT COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE Chris & Gretchin Janowsky
(Paladin Press) [geared toward long-term survival]
SURVIVAL BELT - belt pack 4"x5"x2" waterproof nylon, small folding knife 3" blade, knife sharpener (E-Z Lap Diamond Sharpener), 1 2" flint, 1 large safety pin, waterproof tape, Ziplock plastic bag, nylon twine, wire ring saw, 1 container firestarter, flashlight micro-lithium, spool wire, gaff hook, 1 nail, 3 small animal snares, 1 fishing kit, metal signal mirror

FISHING Kit (p 56) - 4-1/2" x 3" x 1-1/4" box, 4 assorted dry flies #12 hooks, 4 assorted dry flies #14 hooks, 3 large lead jigs in assorted colors #4 hooks, 4 small ice fishing jigs, assorted colors #12 hooks, 6 lead-lined jigs, assorted colors #6 hooks, 6 short shank #4 hooks, 4 short shank #14 hooks, 4 short shank #2 hooks, 6 long shank #4/0 hooks, 1 gaff hook #8/0 hook, 3 Swedish pimples, assorted sizes (ice fishing jigs), 2 large safety pins, 1 band-tied 3-hook worm harness, 1 Rapella lure, 1 red & white Dare-devil, 1 small gold spoon, 1 small silver-spoon, 1 container floating fly dope, 6 4" plastic worms, 3 2" plastic worms,
6 3-way swivels, 6 ball-bearing snap swivels, assortment of lead weights, 1 tapered fly line, 50 yards 18# test braided nylon squidding line, 1 steel leader 8", 3 nylon leaders 20" each, container fish poison

MEDICAL Kit - 1 sterile 2" Kling bandage, tweezers, scissors, 5 Band-Aids, 1 package Tums, 4 sterile 3"x3" dressings, 4 sterile 4"x4" dressings, 1 sterile adaptic 4"x4" dressing, 1 3x5 moleskin, 4 individual application tubes antibiotic ointment, 1 eyewash applicator with saline solution, 1 pkg. aspirin, triangular bandage, 4 alcohol prep pads, 4 butterfly bandages

LARGE SURVIVAL Kit for indefinite survival - sewing awl, needle nose pliers with wire cutter, needle, dental floss (for sewing), folding knife, Sierra saw (folding), ring saw, survival saw, snow shovel, visqueen (heavy plastic tarp), water generator, 3'x3' signal cloth, fishing kit: safety pins, 150' 18 lb line, hooks, floats, bait, etc, multivitamins, protein tablets, hard candy, dried eggs, dried milk, tent cloth, file, silverware, 3 space blankets, compass, signal mirror, 2 sky blazers, 4 candles, micro-lithium flashlight, battery, bulb, firestarter, matches, butane lighter, flint, bug dope (GI), 12 snares, spool snare wire, plastic drinking tube, 2 heavy zip-lock bags, p38 can opener, water purification tablets, sling shot rubber and ammo, diamond knife sharpener, whistle, towel & facecloth, soap, 2 orange smoke signals, 75 yards 42 lb nylon twine, 75' nylon cord, 1 pair work gloves, metal cup, mess kit, small grill, mousetrap, 1 roll surveyors tape, folding water jug

WORLD SURVIVAL INSTITUTE Chris Janowsky (907) 883-4243
SURVIVAL KIT:
Complete fishing kit, gill net, awl with extra thread, 25 ft 550 cord, carton cutter (razor knife), solar battery charger for AA batteries, with rechargeable batteries, signal mirror, magnifying glass, 2 pre-made wire snares, bug dope (insect repellant), camo paint kit, Katadyne H2O purifier, extra H2O purification tablets, spool of nylon twine, with capped center holding safety pins and sewing needles, 2 compasses (1 regular, 1 lensatic), duct tape, waterproof notepad with pens and pencils, space blanket, thermometer, Altibaro (combination altimeter and barometer), spool of tripwire

SPEED POUCH INSIDE SURVIVAL KIT:
Lock-back knife, EZ-Lap diamond knife sharpener, WSI Hot Spark flint, firestarter, small flashlight, slingshot rubber, surveyor's tape, electrolytes

MEDICAL KIT:
6 3X3 gauze pads, 4X4 gauze pads (6 doubles, 4 singles), 3 4X5 Kling bandages, 3 3X5 Kling bandages, 1 field dressing, 10 Adaptic non-adhering dressings, triangular bandage, Ace bandage, assorted Band-Aids, assorted rolls of tape, 1 waterproof, safety pins, various sizes, moleskin, swab sticks, field surgical instruments, assorted sizes od suture thread and needles, iodine, antibiotic cream/ointment, Lanacane cream, eye drops, Tylenol, Bactine, potassium iodine tablets, ground yarrow flowers and leaves, Tums, vitamins, toothbrush, dental powder, dental floss, snake bite kit (optional)

FANNY PACK: fishing line, 2 kinds, small crookneck flashlight, mousetrap, book: Survival, A Manual That Could Save Your Life, waterproof collection bag, net bag, 2 ponchos, 100 ft 550 cord, sierra saw with extra blade, 3 heavy-duty water bags, 6 regular water bags

MISC ITEMS FOR BELT: canteen with drinking/cooking cup and outside pocket for water tablets, large knife with sheath

CAMPING AND WOODCRAFT Horace Kephart (1917)
[reprinted in 1988 by the University of Tennessee Press]
This short list does not do justice to this work. This book contains over 800 pages of outdoor skills, from different types of fires for different purposes to diet and cooking to how to build temporary and permanent shelters. The hardcover will give you a lifetime of pleasure. While outdoor technology has improved in the past 75 years, most of the skills he teaches have not changed in 1000 years.
Hatchet [the editor strongly recommends a small (1# head) hatchet], ,sheath knife (heavy or wet jobs), pocket knife (fine jobs/surgery), compass, watch, whistle, maps, paper & pen, matches in waterproof container, flashlight, spare eyeglasses, first aid kit, 

repair kit: small scissors, tweezers, dental floss, needle, safety pins, rubber band, shoelace, twine, snare wire, rigged fish line, hooks, split shot, etc.

toilet articles: towel, soap, toothbrush, comb, mirror

BACKPACKING ONE STEP AT A TIME Harvey Manning

The Ten Essentials:
1. Extra Clothing
2. Extra Food
3. Sunglasses
4. Knife
5. Fire Starter
6. Matches
7. First-Aid Kit
8. Flashlight
9. Map
10. Compass

Suggested Additions to the Essentials List
*. Whistle
*. Sunscreen
*. Insect Repellant
* Repair Kit: cloth tape, rip stop tape, thread, needles, awl and coarse thread, safety pins, clevis pins, nylon cord, light steel wire, nails and screws, pliers
*. Toilet Kit: toothbrush & paste, soap, small towel, polished steel mirror, comb, handkerchief
*. Other: fishing tackle, notepad & pencil, etc

SPORTS AFIELD OUTDOOR SKILLS Frank Golad
special sections on:
Swiss Army Knife, Super Glue, Survival Food: Amway Nutrilite bars, Monofilament

Pocket-Sized Survival:
Wooden matches in waterproof container OR butane lighter, cotton balls, thick candle, instant soup or bouillon cubes, concentrated food or candy, small folding knife, small compass, Band-Aids, several feet heavy fishing line (20- or 30-lb test), fishhooks and 1 or 2 jigs or flies, ...and possibly: survival book, field guide to edible plants, snake-bite kit, aluminum foil

Survival Fishing Kit:
Few hooks various sizes and styles, couple trout lines (Wolly Worm patterns size 6 or 8), 10 feet mono line at least 10-lb test, rubber bands ...all in a 35mm container that can double as a float

AMERICAN SURVIVAL GUIDE Daniel C. Friend (March 1990)
INVENTORY for BASIC SURVIVAL KIT:
SHELTER and WARMTH
"Emergency" space blanket or bag, heavy duty plastic trash bag (2.5 mil), 550 parachute cord 25', 9' transparent vinyl mending tape (wrap around flashlight),

WATER
heavy-duty plastic water bag (large heavy-duty Ziploc bag will do), iodine-based water tablets, large cotton bandana or triangular bandage 

HEAT, LIGHT, and SIGNALING
9-hour candle, waterproof match case, waterproof strike-anywhere matches, 2 birthday candles, disposable lighter, magnesium firestarter, card-type magnifying lens [fresnel?], police whistle on lanyard [beware of metal whistles they freeze to lips in cold], stainless steel double-surface signal mirror, AA or AAA flashlight with fresh batteries, 50' surveyor's tape, 3"x5" cards and pen

KNIVES and TOOLS
Swiss army knife or Leatherman tool, knife sharpener (opposed tungsten carbide tips), hemostats, small "ignition point" file, 6" sharpened piece of hacksaw blade, 4" extra-heavy duty sewing needle, 6 heavy duty rubber bands

DIRECTION FINDING
Good quality liquid-filled luminous compass

FIRST AID
clean cotton bandana or triangular bandage (see WATER), hemostats (see KNIVES and TOOLS), flexible fabric band-aids of various sizes, handiwipes, insect repellant, aspirins or Tylenol, moleskin or mole foam, Pepto Bismol

GENERAL
Mosquito headnet (for fishing or insects), safety pins, 2 large 4 medium, telephone change, snare wire, brass or copper, survival cards

IN ADDITION TO THE BASIC SURVIVAL KIT ALWAYS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS IN YOUR PACK:
Individual ready-to-eat canned/Pouched food (sardines, etc), detailed map, separate first-aid kit, including prescription medications, small transistor radio, extra pair eyeglasses in unbreakable case

INVENTORY for AUGMENTATION KIT:
FIRST AID
4 3"x3" sterile pads, 1 roll 2" cling bandage, trial size pack Coricidin D decongestant tablets, blister pack of 9 Cepacol throat lozenges, blister pack Pepto Bismol tablets, Neosporin antibiotic ointment, extra safety pins, 6 flexible fabric band-aids

SHELTER and WARMTH
4'x7' poly blanket or extra space blanket, 9-hour candle, 25' 550 parachute cord, small disposable lighter

FOOD and WATER
2 tins sardines or oil-packed tuna, heavy duty nylon spoon, snare wire, mosquito head net, iodine water purification tablets, plastic water bag

SIGNALING
spare batteries for flashlight

HOW TO STAY ALIVE IN THE WOODS Bradford Angier
Survival Kit (Chapter 25)

Hudson Bay Company Emergency Kit contents:
Tea bags 28, vitamin pills 50, pilot bread 30 oz., butter 16 oz., strawberry jam 14-1/2 oz., Klik 12 oz. (meat product?), condensed milk 14 oz., chocolate bars 10.5 oz., matches 100, knife 1, spoon 1, whistle 1, double-faced mirror 1, fishing line 1, fishhooks 4, snare wire 1 oz., candles 2, Kleenex tissue (small amount), camphor, 

Being Ready (chapter 26)
First come matches, then the compass, adhesive bandage, glasses, watch, map, mirror, magnifying glass, knives, ax, saw, carborundum (whetsone), gun and ammunition, sleeping provisions, tent or tarp, flashlight, whistle, binoculars or telescope, insect repellant, fishing gear, writing materials, water purifier, cooking outfit, survival rations, rope or cord, toilet kit, medicine kit, extra clothing, portable memory

Ed's Flight Emergency Kit
Please note: This is similar to a 'bug-out bag', but the purpose is to survive for a few days, until located by searchers. Since the items I have picked for my kit will be used after a forced landing, they are weighted toward medical and shelter, with long term survival last in priority. In the event of a forced landing in unsettled, rough terrain, you can expect to survive no more than three days. No food items are included as you won't starve to death in this time. This obviously is not acceptable in a 'bug-out bag', so add to my list for such needs. This is posted with an expectation of CONSTRUCTIVE comment. Please, no flames! Positive comments accepted, negative individuals will not get a reply.

FISKARS (tm) Stainless Hunting knife, 5 in. blade, sheath with sharpener.

First Aid Kit, sealed, 2 1/2 dia x 7 1/2 in long. Contains: 1 collapsible drinking cup, 6 adhesive bandages, 1 roll adhesive tape, 1 TYLENOL (tm) packet, 1 sterile gauze pad, 1 antiseptic wipe, 2 First Aid Creme packets, 1 moist towlette, 1 windshield cleaner, 1 Highway Distress Banner, 1 First Aid Booklet, (I don't expect the windshield cleaner or highway banner to be useful but do not want to break the seal to remove them from the packet.) Mfg. by QUEEN CITY Group, Inc., Band-Aids (32 ea.)., Antiseptic wipes (10 ea.), Adhesive Tape (1 roll), Instant Cold Pack., Deep Woods OFF (TM), Survival Signaling Mirror, Air Force Type Mfg. By Safesport Manf. Co, Denver, Co 80202, 1 SILVA (tm) Type 3 Compass, 1 fondue candle 1 1/2 in. dia x 5/8 in deep, in aluminum holder., 2 pack of disposable butane lighters.

SKYBLAZERS (tm) SURVIVAL Belt Pack. Contains: 3 RED Flares, 1 Green Dye Markers for water or snow, 1 Orange Banner, 2-4x4 Sterile Pads, 1- 3x3 Sterile Pad, 1- First Aid Guide, 2 Band-Aid Knuckle bandage, 2 Emergency Blankets (poly, the cheap ones), 1 roll Nylon Twine, #18, 260 ft., 1 SURVIVAL(tm) whistle/compass/waterproof match holder, mirror. appx 1 in dia. x 5 in. long., 1 tweezers, CHARTER ARMS(tm) EXPLORER II .22 pistol & 250 rounds of .22 LR HP ammo, 1 tube #30 sunscreen, 1 Emergency flashlight, hand operated generator type, 

All of the above fits in a small tackle box, appx 7 x 7 x 14 inches. wt 9 lbs. In addition, in my Map case, I carry a large Fresnel lens, appx 8x10 inches. This is to start fires. Takes up almost no space. Also, in my map case are more survival instructions on Plastic cards, bound together at one corner by a plastic grommet. These tell me what is safe to eat, hand and ground signals, etc. Also, I have a reversible Flight jacket. Dark Blue on the outside, International Orange on the inside. And a similar roll up cap. I purchased these items from ALOHA Surplus, Hillsboro, OR. when I was up there last summer. And I also carry a 2-man tent.

Backpack Kit:
Buck Special 6", with leather sheath and with the grip wrapped in friction tape., Gerber Gator 4", Pliers (channellock-type), P-38 can opener, "church key" can opener, 1 bottle of Polar Pure(tm) water purifier., 3-1qt canteens, army-surplus ripstop poncho with liner, 2D Mag-Lite with extra bulb and batteries, Silva model 15 compass, 200 wooden matches, flint striker, sierra cup, coffee can, 1/2 pound beef jerky, 1 pound hardtack, 20 tea bags (always the caffeine hound), 1 bottle, homemade hot sauce (I'll give out the recipe if you ask nicely), 1/2 pound, dried fruit, wool shirt, one pair wool socks, one set, long underwear, one pair, wool fatigue pants, 10 3"x3" gauze pads, 10 butterfly bandages, 15 1"x3" bandages, 2 3"x180" gauze roller bandages, 1 roll, waterproof tape, 3 8"x10" compress bandages, 4 oz., povidone-iodine scrub, 1 bar, Ivory., toothbrush, extra bootlaces, 50' parachute cord, one roll, duct tape

The Buck Special, compass, 1 canteen, and one of the large compress bandages I keep lashed to the outside of a backpack. Everything else rides inside 

Fannypack Kit:
2 - 3600 kcal food rations, 6 - 250mL water rations (1/day/person if water cannot be found), 1 - bottle water purification tablets (50), 1 - bottle potassium iodide tablets (14), 2 - emergency blankets, 2 - plastic ponchos, 1 - magnesium fire starter, 6 - 18 hr. heat packs, 3 - 12 hr. light sticks, 1 - signal mirror, 1 - emergency flare, 1 - flashlight/locator strobe, 4 - AA batteries (for above), 1 - emergency whistle, 1 - multi-function shears (like EMT shears with Swiss Army knife functions too), 1 - 50 ft. nylon rope, 1 - pkg. toilet tissue, 1 - Life Card (compass, survival tips, fresnel lens, etc.), 1 - snake bite kit, 4 - 4x6 field dressings, 1 - 250mL sterile water (U.S.P. for first aid use), 1 - trauma pack (see below), 1 - first aid & meds pack (see below)

Trauma Pack:
2 - 2" sterile gauze wraps, 2 - 4" sterile gauze wraps, 1 - triangular bandage, 5 - 4x4 sterile gauze pads, 5 - 4x4 sterile burn dressings, 1 - 3" elastic bandage, 2 - bloodstopper bandages, 1 - cold pack, 2 - 8x10 absorbent pads, 2 - eye pads, 1 - 1" waterproof tape, 1 - pkg. wound closure strips, 2 - mini isolation kits,

Meds Pack:
20 -1x3 adhesive bandages, 5 - ex. large bandages, 1 - 4 oz. burn cream, 1 - lip balm, 3 - ammonia inhalants, 10 - antiseptic towelettes, 10 - hydrocortisone cream packets, 10 - triple antibiotic ointment packets, 1 - 1 oz. dibucaine ointment, 1 - 15 mL eye drops, 1 - 1/2 oz. anti-fungal cream, 10 - decongestant packets (2 tablets), 15 - ibuprofen packets, 15 - extra-strength Tylenol packets, 10 - antihistamine packets, 10 - diarrhea relief packets, 10 - Pepto-Bismol packets

Please note that the omission of any hunting, fishing, or cooking supplies, and the lack of any guns or other similar weapons is intentional. This pack is not designed to be a "let's go live in the wilderness for 6 months because the global economy has collapsed (as predicted), there are riots in the streets (also predicted), and the "New World Order" (whatever that means) has taken over and their first order of business is to take everyone's guns (predicted)". Rather, this is a basic survival kit designed to keep 2 people alive for at least 72 hours in the event of an earthquake (or similar natural disaster), stranded car in the middle of the desert or a blizzard, light plane crash, etc.

Some items that I would consider adding: *Boots or hiking shoes, *Currency-money orders if you are preparing for natural disaster, precious metals if the breakdown of society is what you fear, *Folding cookstove (sterno type?), *Duct tape, *Small emergency shelter (tarp, tube tent or bivy sack), *A cap in a dark neutral color, *Towel, *Gerber or Leatherman-type multitool, *Can opener, *CAR-15 rifle w/five 20rd mags, *insect repellant, *entrenching tool, *knife sharpener

All items are in a Large Ruck;
Military 2 piece rain suit, Military sleeping bag (mummy style), Rapelling harness(Mil issue), Commo wire, Bi-phone, Wool gloves and Shells, Jungle Boots, Socks (asst), Changes of clothes, Chem lights (asst colors,12 total), Small pop-up tent, 9 MRE's, Basic First -Aid Kit, zip lock bags, 3 two quart canteens (attached to the outside), asst powdered soups and energy bars

I also keep a LBE over the ruck, which includes:
Angle head flashlight, 2 one quart canteens, 2 ammo pouches w/40rds 30-06 & 15rds 12 ga, Large hunting knife, Gerber Multipliers, Compass, Collapsible entrenching tool

Butt back, contents are as follows;
Fire starter, emergency blanket, tri wing stove w\fuel, Flares, water markers, Firefly Strobe light, Bug Dope, Camo Makeup, 550 cord, Signal Mirror, Small chain type saw, Another first aid kit (I know I have 2), matches

Blue Ridge Mountains Rescue Group - Search and Rescue Kit
(visit the BRMRG homepage for more)

Clothes and foot gear for fair and foul weather, rain gear, 5 large heavy duty plastic trash bags, water container 1 or 2 liter, headlamp flashlight and backup light, candle & lighter, knife, compass, personal first aid kit, pen and paper, whistle, two pairs plastic gloves, day pack, 2 pieces Perlon - 5' and 7', 1 locking D carabiner, 20' nylon webbing, leather gloves

Here's the kit I carry in my plane, fits in fairly small backpack:

Signaling Devices
Signaling Mirror (NSN 6350-00-105-1252) w/lanyard, (8) Cyalume sticks: 30 min yellow, (3) 12 hr yellow (2/94), 12 hr green, (3) 12 hr red (1/97), Metal Whistle w/lanyard,Mk 13 day/night flare, 60 sec Signal smoke (exp 12/96), (9) Olin 8 sec magnesium aerial flares (exp 9/97), SDU-5/E Strobe marker, ser #003629 (NSN 6230-00-067-5209) w/lanyard, spare battery, Survival Marker (International Orange), 34"x34" (Army "yoo-hoo rag"), 4 ea dye packet

Tools/Weapons
Backpack (contains all gear except AR-7), Inventory list (this list), AR-7 Survival Rifle, serial #A293692 w/100 rds .22 LR, Gerber MK II Survival Knife, ser #111646 w/lanyard, Swiss Army Knife w/lanyard, Swiss Army Officers Compass w/lanyard, Diamond-coated knife sharpener, LeatherMan Mini-Tool w/lanyard, Survival Saw ("Wyoming Saw"), 1 roll electrician tape, 60' 550 lb test parachute cord, 50' light multipurpose nylon cord, Emergency Fishing Kit (NSN 4220-00-244-0764)

Miscellaneous
Camo bush hat and Mosquito net, Land Survival manual, Army FM 21-76 (6/92 ed), 4 12"x12" zip-top bags, Numerous 4"x4" zip-top bags, Portable Hammock (doubles as gill net), ,Thermometer (on backpack zipper), 12 tongue depressors, 2 "P-38" can openers, 5' surgical tubing

Fire-Starters
(2) Bic butane lighters, Waterproof match box w/20 Blue Tip matches, (5) camping candles, Magnesium block fire starter, Flint and striker, (3) packets Trioxane

First Aid
1 oz tube Betadine ointment, 5/8 oz tube Mycitracin antibiotic ointment, 5 yds 1/2" adhesive tape, 1/3 oz tube Petroleum Jelly, 1 oz "6/12" insect repellent stick, 5 oz "Skeeter Stik" external anesthetic, 3 oz SPF 30 sunblock lotion, 1 Surgical blade, 5 single-edge razor blades, Splinter tweezers, Chapstick
Red Cross Emergency First Aid kit (augmented)

a. Pocket 1 (Severe Bleeding and Burns) 1 large folded pad, 2 gauze roller bandages, 5 4"x4" sterile pads (added), 5 yds gauze roller bandage (added)

b. Pocket 2 (Medium Cuts), 2 dry swabs, 2 medium pads with gauze roller bandages, 4 sterile water wash pads, 4 alcohol swabs (added), 4 2"x2" sterile pads (added)

c. Pocket 3 (Small cuts) 6 sterile water wash swabs, 4 dry swabs, Assorted bandages, 2 packages, each containing above 3 items

d. Other pockets - 2 triangular bandages with pins, 12 Aspirin (325 mg) (Personal Items pocket) (exp 9/93), Space blanket, Bandage Scissors, 6 ammonia inhalants (Personal Items pocket), 5 first aid field dressings, 4"x7" (FSN 6510-201-7455), ACE bandage, 2-1/2", Soap Bar, Second Space blanket, Military casualty blanket (orange/silver), Jobst inflatable full arm splint, Jobst inflatable full leg splint,

Food/Water
Katadyn Pocket Filter, .2 micron, ser #76673, 2-1/2 qt collapsible water bag, 2 MRE Meatballs w/BBQ sauce, 5 MRE complete meal packets (in aircraft), MRE applesauce, MRE crackers, MRE potato patty, MRE Blackberry Jam, MRE Cocoa beverage powder, 4 Survival Chocolate Bars, 4 .7 oz Dextrose bars

A bug-out bag depends on what you're preparing for. A general purpose "I'm away from home, trying to get to home" bag could hold a number of things. 

1. Enough food for 3 to 5 days for you & your family. MRE's aren't very good and they cost too much, but they pack a good number of calories for the mass they carry. Remember, the average person eats about 1.7 pounds of food per day, so pack accordingly, better to over do it than under do it. 
2. One gallon of water per person 
3. An advanced first-aid kit, one with sutures and clamps. You should also take a "First Responder Course" so that you can know who to use most of that equipment. 
4. A good knife, not a lock-back, but a solid knife with a hard steel and good edge, you may need to cut rope, cut wire, saw something. 
5. Depending upon your adherence to concealed weapon laws a handgun may be included. 
6. A truncheon. 
7. An axe/hatchet 
8. A tool kit (ratchet set, screwdriver set, hammer & nails) 
9. A radio that can pick up television channels, preferably one with a crank so no batteries needed. 
10. A hand held CB. 
11. A flashlight, a good flashlight, perhaps one for each member of the family. 
12. TOILET PAPER 
13. Hobo pocket knife (knife, spoon, fork) 
14. Compass 
15. Rope (good stuff, not the nylon crap you find in hardware stores, get rappelling rope. 
16. Change of clothes, nothing worse that having to be in wet clothes, include with this a rain parka and hats. 
17. Blankets 

1. 2 changes of clothing in large ziplock freezer bags
2. first aid kit
3. 2 quart canteen on outside of bag (change the water every week)
4. multi purpose folding tool (leatherman) 
5. 500ft. of parachute 550 cord.
6. rain poncho and poncho liner
7. extra set of jungle boots
8. hatchet
9. 1 quart canteen/with metal cup (for cooking soup)
10. signal mirror
11. magnifying glass
12. 4 bic disposable lighters (better than matches)
13. fishing tackle 
14. 1 box of 22lr ammo
15. $100.00 us
16. a visa with $1000.00 credit limit (for buying emergency services)
17. 2 boxes (12pkg ea) of instant chicken noodle soup removed from the boxes and stored in a ziplock
18. folding shovel (e-tool)
19. 2 ibm compatible disks with copies of all of my important documents on them... they are not legally binding, but in a pinch they will let you prove who you are.
20. books...... st-31-91b us army special forces medical handbook manual of emergency medicine, the herb book by john lust
21. roll of toilet paper
22. compass and state maps
23. flashlight & extra batteries
24. small cheap am/fm/short-wave radio receiver
total weight about 45-50 lbs if I use my frame on the pack

I have taken my bag to a state park to see how well it was put together and it did the job for me. I use the poncho for shelter or when I want to sleep on the go, I tie the liner inside and use it like a sleeping bag. I use rocks and sticks for the tent pegs and poles if necessary to keep the weight down.

Things to consider for survival.

(1) What are you surviving?
(2) Winter, desert, natural disaster, Artic, or total break down of law and order.
(3) Are you single or responsible for a family, parents, etc.
(4) Do you live in a rural or metro area.
(5) Are you willing to protect what you have with whatever force necessary.
(6) Medical, what do you know about it beyond minor first aid.
(7) There is safety in numbers. Everyone must contribute.
(8) Read a fiction work called "Lucifer’s Hammer" Really makes one think. Great survival research went into that one. Plus It will keep you awake nights reading.

FIRE BUSH MEMORY HELPER:*

1) Have your matches container attached ON YOU & WATER TIGHT.

2) An axe is the most important tool in the bush, more so than the gun, bow and arrow, next in line is a good machete or those new all purpose shovels. pix* 

3) The hunting knife comes next, but well sharpened & A GOOD ONE.

4) A bit of snare wire, some small waxed string & a long leather shoe lace, a strong rope, are more useful than a gun.

A) Snare wire, to snare rabbits, partridge & trout.
B) Wax string to attach which you'll have to make in survival
C) Strong rope to suspend your game, or attach big snare, pulling.
D) Well oiled leather string to tie your luggage, transport pull an animal from water 

5) THIS BOOK FOR ALL KIND OF USES & S/KIT. PRACTICE IT!!!

6) Your gun, ammo & other stuff in traveling kit. (MAX 40 LBS!)

7) NEVER enter the bush without a good warm parka, even if it's hot day, better to carry it on your back, than having nothing when night comes and you find that you MUST stay in the bush.

8) MAKE SURE you NEVER enter wood without good strong boots. The army type is not the best, for the leather sole slips on wood unless it has the nonskid & WOOL SOCKS 1 SPARE.

9) You MUST have some kind of container to boil things with, you may forget the tea or coffee but NEVER the container.

10) A 3 days Survival pack via food ex: Pinole, pemmican, spirolina, peanuts.

11) ALWAYS carry a lot of matches and spare Bic lighters. (Keep them Dry!) WE URGE YOU TO BRING 4 BIC LIGHTERS

12) Don't waste matches, use hot embers to light cigarettes, BRING CANDLES (2)

13) SEE BEST #1 AND #2 S/KIT #3 one for on you and one for 40 LBS, 1 group of 4. (SAS) **** 2 do asap

PRACTICE FIRE LIGHTING:
FIRE IS ESSENTIAL TO SURVIVAL. It provides warmth, protection, a means of signaling, boils water, cooks and preserves food.

YOU MUST LEARN TO LIGHT A FIRE UNDER ANY CONDITIONS ANYWHERE, FAST & ANY TIME. IT IS NOT ENOUGH TO KNOW ALL THE METHODS YOU HAVE TO BE EXPERT AT THEM. FIRST ESSENTIAL ABILITY: 
THE ABILITY TO LIGHT FIRE UNDER ALL KIND OF CONDITIONS IS ONE OF THE FIRST ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE IN SURVIVAL. THUS YOUR ABILITY TO DO SO WILL GIVE YOU GREATER CONFIDENCE IN YOUR ABILITY TO OVERCOME OBSTACLES IN ALL AVENUES OF LIFE AND SPECIALLY IN SURVIVAL.

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

SURVIVAL KNIVES:
A strong knife is the survivor's best friend. Not all knives are created equal. Utility and strength are the hallmarks of any survival knife. It MUST have a full tang; the portion of the blade that extends into the handle for maximum strength. A knife with full tang has a blade that is one solid piece from the tip to the butt of the handle. The design is standard for all GI-issue knives as well as high-quality civilian models. A survival knife also has saw-teeth cut into the back, or "spine" of the blade opposite the cutting edge. These are not designed to saw through branches but to cut shallow, squared grooves into wood and bone.

A shallow groove cut into two sides of a sapling will prevent a tied rope from sliding along its length, and sharp sided notches are vital to the construction of quality snares and deadfall. Its handle should ALWAYS be contoured to fit its user's hand and should ALWAYS have a grooved, checkered or knurled surface. A smooth handle is slippery when wet or while the user is wearing gloves, making the knife hard to get a grip on and dangerous. The knife should also have a wide finger-guard that extends beyond the blade in either direction. This will prevent the hand from sliding over the blade if a slip should occur. Finger-guards on some newer survival knife have a flat and cross-point screwdriver tip ground
into either end.

The butt end of the handle should terminate in a solid, heavy, and firmly attached butt cap. The butt cap is meant to be used as a hammer, and MUST be equal to the task. One survival knife; the Imperial Schrade M-7S, has a unique butt cap that's squared on 3 sides for hammering and has a claw-type nail puller and ice claw on the forth.

It's important that the blade have a "false" or unsharpened edge running 2 or 3 inches along the spine and down to the tip. The false edge is not usually sharpened because its purpose is to penetrate rather than to cut. Having a false edge makes the blade terminate in a needle-like point, very useful for drilling holes in wood, bone or leather.

Before buying a survival knife, give some consideration to the type of ground edge it has. Sharpness at this point is not important, but the shape of the edge itself is.

THERE ARE 5 BASIC EDGE TYPES:
They are saber-ground, flat-ground, hollow-ground, semi-hollow ground and diamond-ground. The ground edge is what determine how strong the blade is and how sharp it can be made. Until recently the saber ground edge was the standard for survival knives, military blades and bayonets and in general still is. But now the new US Army M (Field knife made by Buck) has a semi-hollow ground edge.

The saber-ground edge is shaped like a V, beginning about half way down the blade and ending in a point at the cutting edge. It is difficult to sharpen because the entire surface of the ground edge MUST be honed down to make the point formed at the cutting edge sharp. It also dulls rather quickly regardless of how hard the steel is because the V formed by the edge is wide. (The narrower the V, the sharper the edge.) The advantage of the sabre-ground edge is that the maker need remove only a minimum amount of material from the blade, leaving fully half of it at full thickness. The result is a blade that it can with practice & work, be made sharp enough to shave the hair off someone's arm while retaining enough brute strength to withstand the abuse of being used a prybar, wedge, or climbing tool. The legendary Marine Corps K-Bar Fighting knife and the USAF Pilot's survival knife have saber-ground edges.

The flat-ground edge is similar tooth V formed by the sabre-ground edge, except that it begins at the blade's spine and ends at the cutting edge giving the entire blade a sharp "V" shape. A flat-ground blade is necessarily wide in comparison to its thickness but can be honed to razor sharpness with little trouble and retains a functional cutting edge very well. It is not as strong as the sabre-ground edge because more steel is removed when the edge is formed, but many experienced woodsmen have been willing to make the sacrifice. The Trailmaster, a large Bowie knife from the Cold Steel company, has a flat-ground edge, as do many folding knives. The hollow-ground edge is the sharpest of them all. This is the edge found on straight razors and a few fillet knifes. It is formed by grinding a wide groove along the length of the blade on either side, beginning at the spine of the blade and ending at the cutting edge. Unfortunately, so much metal is removed from the blade to form the edge that it becomes downright weak. Consequently, no companies are making a hollow-ground belt knife and it is just as well.

The semi-hollow ground edge is another matter. This edge has such a strong following that is can be found on nearly every hunting knife ever made. It is formed by grinding a groove length-wise along either side of the blade, much the same as the hollow-ground edge. The difference is that the semi-hollow edge has a much smaller radius, beginning only halfway down the blade and ending at the cutting edge. This leaves half the blade a full thickness to maximize the strength while narrowing the cutting edge into a sharp V that will take and hold a very keen honed edge. Because of the advent of superior alloys and heat treating methods, this edge is gaining still more popularity among survivalists & professional woodsmen for whom a broken knife is not just an inconvenience but a serious problem. The Gerber BMF Survival knife, US Navy UDT knife and the Buck M9 Field knife have semi-hollow ground edges.

The last type or diamond-ground edge is unique to double-edges knives & daggers. Essentially a saber-ground edge that has been duplicated on what would otherwise be the spine of the blade, it produces a second cutting edge. However this edge can not be made sharp and is inherently weak because so much metal is removed from the blade. Better to stay away from that type of knife is our advice.

BOWIE-TYPE SURVIVAL KNIFE:
The Rambo type has the characteristics that distinguish the Bowie from other blades' types is its wide, thick blade, good balance, heavy finger-guard and a long false edge. Today there are at least a dozen hollow-handle survival knives on the market, proof enough that the design has following among outdoorsmen. 

At first glance it appears to be a wonderful idea to use the handle as a storage place for survival items, until one REMEMBERS that that's where the tang should be. Hollow knives have no tang to speak of because the blade mounts to the handle rather than running though it. The design quite virtually takes the backbone out of the knife, making it prone to breakage during hard use. I suggest that anyone in the market for a serious survival knife that carries its own emergency items give some consideration to knives like the Imperial Schrade M-7S or Gerber BMF.

Both of these offer the strength of a full tang and come with sheath pouches containing compass, matches, wire-saw and fishing tackle. Having said that, we recommend that anyone who still wants a hollow-handle knife purchase the Buckmaster made by Buck Knives. 

The so-called "blood grooves" still found on many blades including the legendary K-Bar should be avoided. Folded knives have little value as general duty survival knives because, like hollow-handle knives, they have no tang. Still the folding knife has a place in the survivalist's kit. The large size and brute strength of the general survival knife, so desirable for building shelters, butchering large animals, and a host of other heavy chores, work against its delicate tasks. Fashioning wooden implements and sensitive snare triggers and filleting fish are best accomplished by smaller, thinner blades. For these and many other light duty chores, we recommend any good 3 blades stockman knife. Personally I love the Swiss Army knife. 

Choosing a survival knife with so much variety of brands, sizes and styles can be a confusing experience. 

FIRE STARTING TOOLS:
Matches are something every woodsman MUST HAVE AT ALL TIMES. Used carefully, a single book of matches is capable of starting 25 fires; 2 books = 40 fires. Assuming that the survivalist is walking back to civilization, at that the average person can walk 25 miles a day, if he makes a new campfire each night and does not waste any matches, he will have to walk 500 miles before exhausting a single book.

Wooden "strike anywhere" safety matches offer the advantage of being hotter burning and less apt to be blown out by a breeze but these can be quite volatile often igniting against themselves. Many a woodsman, myself included, has had the unpleasant experience of having a pocketful of these little wonders ignite from rubbing against one another. So ALWAYS carry them in an airtight container.

The newest breed of wooden matches is a bit safer. They are equally to being blown out, but will only light when struck against the igniter strip on the side of the box they come in. These can be carried in a match holder, pill bottle or even wrapped in a plastic sandwich bag as a protection against moisture, but they are useless unless a section of the igniter is included. Disposable butane lighters are one of the many modern technologies most of have come to take for granted.

A single Bic type lighter is the equivalent of about 100 books of matches and has the advantage of being impervious to water. If it becomes dunked all one has to do is wait until the flint and igniter wheel dry out & it's back in business. But the value of the butane lighter does not end when the supply of butane is exhausted. I have found that by removing the metal hood surrounding the gas port the lighter can be used as spark-thrower to ignite dried grass, cotton fibers and other fine tender. It seems the flint in a disposable butane lighter ALWAYS lasts twice as long as its butane supply and that can be an advantage in the wilderness.

Chemical fire starters are also a great asset, especially in very cold or wet weather. Military Trioxane bars and the smaller Hexamine tablets, available in most Army-Navy surplus stores, are very stable, have an almost infinite shelf life, and burn with a hot, smokeless blue flame that can be used to start a fire with wet wood or windy conditions. Either of them can also be used alone to heat water or canned food. Trioxane comes in a box containing 3 foil-wrapped bars and retails for about $2.00 per box. Hexamine tablets come 6 to a cardboard tube and retail for around $1.00 per tube. Both of these are very effective for starting fires under adverse conditions, but I prefer the larger Trioxane bars. Having one of these in my pack has saved my fingers on several subzero mornings when the temperature was so low I had only seconds in which to get the fire started before my hands turned into frostbitten claws.

The magnesium fire-starting block comes onto the market almost a decade ago but has NEVER gained much popularity. This is one of those items that apparently works fine in the lab but not in the field. Better forget it altogether.

Candles are on old tried and true fire starting aid that every woodsman should at least have one "Emergency Candle" in his pocket or kit to help light fires in wet weather. A LIT CANDLE PLACED UNDER A PILE EVEN OF THE WETTEST TWIGS WILL START A FIRE, EVEN IN A LIGHT RAIN. One of the beauty is that they are real cheap. Tea candles that come in their own metal container are also very cheap and in some cases even better.

FISHING GEAR:
There is no reason for anyone venturing into or near wilderness to be without a good supply of fishing gear. Improvised hooks made of bone or wood and fishing line made of twisted plant fibers are things of the past and completely unnecessary for the modern woodsman to survive in the wild. Survivalists have ALWAYS realized the value of a fishing kit in the forest where streams are plentiful and fish provide an abundant & reliable source of food every month of the year.

A good working fishing kit is so small and light that it will fit into a jacket pocket. The kit I have used for the past 10 years is self-contained, dirt cheap to make, and unbelievably effective. We have used it to take brook trout, bluegill, perch, rock bass, etc. The kit I used consists of a plastic 35 mm. film bottle with a Snap-On cap. The film bottle is my container of choice for most small items because it is unbreakable, tough and has a watertight seal. In it I place an assortment of long-shank hooks (they seem to be most effective), about a dozen split-shot sinkers at least 30 feet of 20 pound test mono-filament line held in a small coil with a rubber band or a wire tie, a scented rubber worm, and a Swedish Pimple or spinner for jigging. And even with all this, there is still room for swivels, a steel leader, extra hooks or a number of other small items. But the film bottle itself is an important part of the fishing kit. With a few wraps of brightly colored vinyl tape around its circumference that can be used for many uses, it will also work efficiently as a fishing float or "bobber".

As an alternative, making a bobber from a twig is simple. First select a dry softwood twig about 4 inches long and 3/4 of inch in diameter (these dimensions are not critical and are given only as suggestion). Remove the bark, if the twig is dry it should come off easily with your thumbnail. If the wood is darkened scrape the surface lightly with a knife until the entire surface is a light tan color. Remove about 2 inches of colored vinyl tape from the film bottle. Lay the fishing line parallel along the surface of the twig, fastening the two together. The bobber can now be slid along the line until the desired depth is achieved. The emptied bottle can be used in the same way. Artificial bait (lures) can be very effective for catching fish without the conventional rod and reel. 

A small spinner can be used for jigging in pools or slow moving streams and will be active enough in fast moving streams to attract trout and creek chubs. Swedish Pimples are probably the most effective lures for bass, crappies, perch and sunfish. A scented rubber worm is attractive to all types of fish and can be cut into small sections to extend its usefulness. Floating flies are effective for catching trout, bass and perch, and are also easily tied in the field using thread, feathers, animal fur or even one's own hair. Live bait can be found at nearly any time of the year, including winter. Earthworms are available on the banks of rivers, streams and lakes until the ground freezes in winter. 

Grasshoppers, crickets, bees and most any other insects will be attractive to most type of fishes, especially bass and perches. Grubs, insect pupae and salamanders can be found in rotting stumps & logs throughout the year. Freshwater clams are excellent bait and they too can be found close to shore in lakes and streams at all times of the year. And ALWAYS REMEMBER that fishes are cannibalistic creatures. If more live bait is somehow unavailable, the first fish caught can be sacrificed as bait to catch others.

One item we believe should be a part of any woodsman's kit is the 4 tined frog spearhead. A spear-shaft can be quickly made from a straight green sapling and fastened securely to the spearhead simply by forcing the tapered shaft into it. The spear head cost only about $3.00 and could be used to take frogs, fish and even small animals. 

Rabbit burrows are often shallow and straight, making it simple to thrust the spear through the burrow entrance and impale the rabbit. This tactic like many others in survival, is not pleasant, but when the alternative is starvation, the choice is easy.

SHELTER MATERIALS: PONCHO:
A PONCHO IS ONE OF THE MOST VERSATILE TOOLS FOR PROTECTION AGAINST THE ELEMENTS.
It can be worn as a raincoat, wrapped around a sleeping bag or bedroll to keep it dry, used as water-proof shelter, or to collect rain, shadow maker against a burning sun, or simply used to cover a person who MUST sleep in the open.

SPACE BLANKET:
The basic model is simply a large sheet of reflective aluminum laminated plastic, usually 84 X 54 in 7 weighs about 2 ounces. It is reputed to be able to reflect up to 80% of a person's body heat back at them. My own experience is that it does not provide sufficient insulation by itself to keep a person warm in cold weather. It does however make a wonderful shelter roof, being waterproof and windproof. An added bonus is that its shiny silver coating turns the entire shelter into a giant mirror that is easily spotted from the air. A variation of this is the cloth backed vinyl sportsman's blanket, available in red, sliver or woodland camouflage. This blanket has about the same size as the space blanket, weighs 12 oz. but it is a bit more durable and made to be used over and over. Whereas the space-blanket is designed to be used only once. 

Another inexpensive and effective shelter material is the polypropylene plastic sheeting used as tarpaulins and painter's drop cloths. It is light, water and windproof & is available in clear or black. We recommend the clear one because it is more easily spotted from the air and makes a more efficient solar still for collecting and purifying water. 

ROPES:
While not absolutely necessary to the construction of an emergency shelter, 100 feet or so of strong, light nylon cord is invaluable for erecting shelters quickly, not to mention the 100's uses it has around camp, including the use as heat booster in a campfire. P/S: You also MUST learn some basic knots. (Square/Bowline & Double half hitch.#?**)

SIGNALS:
Those in need of rescue should be aware of the techniques for alerting a search party to their whereabouts. The lost or stranded hunter needs to be especially well informed because he has not gotten a lot of time. It is rather hard fact that most hunters are given up for dead after a maximum of 72 hours in cold weather.

The signal flare is a tried and true method of signaling, but it can only be effective if the searchers are close enough to see its trail as it arcs through the sky. Even then the flare is only visible for only a few seconds and can be obscured from sight by high terrain. The most common type of signal flare is the single shot flare pistol. These pistols use a flare cartridge that resembles a 12 gauge shotgun shell. But be warned, flare pistols are usually constructed of cast metal or even plastic. NEVER attempt to fire a shotgun shell in on. They usually start around $60.00. Pencil flares are another more compact type of signal flare launcher. It is a compact tube slightly larger than a pencil. Since it is smaller than the flare pistol it also uses a smaller less obvious flare.

WHISTLES:
Loud piercing whistles have had some value in signaling search parties in the past, particularly in densely forested areas or under foggy conditions. The sound of a whistle will carry for miles in mountainous country. Sports whistles work very well, but there is currently a unit on the market that incorporates a liquid filled compass, match holder, signal whistle and lanyard. The entire unit is about 6 inches long by 2 inches in diameter and composed of orange plastic. About $5.00 it should be a welcome addition to any survival kit.

FLASHLIGHTS:
They are not only generally useful, they make an excellent signaling device. New flashlight, most notably the near indestructible Mag-Lite, use high intensity Krypton or halogen bulbs that give the standard 2 cell D size flashlight as much brilliance as the old 6 volts type. Even the AA Mini Mag-Lite provides more light than standard D-cell flashlights.

There are currently several aluminum flashlights on the marker but we recommend the Mag-Lite by name because it has proven track record for durability, bulbs are readily available from most stores. They have adjustable beams that can be focused from broad to spotlight. As a signal the flashlight is useful only at night, but its beam can be seen from as far as 5 miles away, depending on the size and power of the light. Considering its utility, it would be foolish for anyone to venture into the wilderness without a good flashlight, spare batteries and an extra bulb, even if the light is just a cheap plastic model. 

FIRE AS SIGNAL: SEEN 15 MILES AWAY
Fire is also useful as a distress signal and in some situations it may even be the best way to attract help. A large but controllable signal fire built on the highest point possible will be visible from more than 15 miles away depending on weather conditions and is sure to be seen by passing aircraft.

AS A SURVIVAL FIREARMS RIFLE IS BEST!:
Unless at war a true survivalist does not need to be Rambo with its fully automatic weapon. The rifle is most often selected as a survival gun for a number of reasons. It has more range, accuracy and killing power than a handgun or shot gun in any given caliber. It is easy to become proficient with than a handgun, its ammunition is smaller than used in the shotgun; and finally, the rifle is more certain of getting the job done at longer ranges than either of the other two.

Yet even though nearly all experienced outdoorsmen agree that the rifle is best suited for the role of survival gun, there exists some disagreement about which caliber is most capable of meeting the needs of the survivalist. We believe the .22 Long Rifle is the best choice available for use in all-around survival rifle.

Why the .22? Versatility is the biggest reason. In the hands of a skilled marksman the vastly underrated long Rifle cartridge can and has been used to take nearly every edible animal on the N. American continent. We have used it successfully to take rabbits, porcupine, squirrels, ducks, geese, trout and even white tail deer at distances of up to
100 yards. As a sporting cartridge, the .22 is illegal to use on many of these animals, but the need to eat in a survival situation is recognized by all. Apart form its proven killing power and accuracy, the .22 Long Rifle cartridge is even more attractive because of its small size and portability. The standard box of 50 rounds weighs only 6 oz. 500 rounds are more than sufficient for any contingency, including repeated signaling with gunshots, yet weigh less than 4 pounds.

For the woodsman who wants a survival gun but can not choose a rifle or shotgun, there is a very nice compromise from Savage Firearms. The Model 24 is an over and under shotgun/rifle combination and is available in a number of caliber/gauge combinations. Like 30/30/20 gauge, .22 Long Rifle/20 gauge or .22 Long Rifle/.410. When not in use the Model 24 breaks down into 3 separate pieces, the stock and receiver, the barrels and the forearm, and fits easily into a full size backpack. 

Following is a list of firearms that we have used and can recommend for use by anyone needing a firearm to provide themselves with food in an emergency. Two of them, the Charter Arms AR & and the Marlin 70P , are semi-autos with screw-off barrels that were designed specifically for use as backpack survival rifles. The AR-7 has long been a favorite of canoeists because its receiver and barrel can be detached form and stowed in the hollow plastic stock, making it the world's only floating rifle.

Marlin Model 25 bolt-action .22 =$100.00 US
Charter Arms AR-7 semi-auto .22 =$150.00
Savage Model 24 over & under =$260.00
Armscor Model 20P semi-auto .22 = $90.00
Marlin Model 70P semi-auto .22 =$100.00

MARKSMANSHIP:
Far too many sports hunters take to the field with little or no shooting skills, secure in the fact that if they miss they can ALWAYS go home to a hot meal. But if you are stranded or injured you can not afford to be so blithe concerning your marksmanship. In the wild every single cartridge represents a meal or an important signal. Like all skills shooting has its own procedures and techniques that MUST be followed to become even mediocre.

First is proper sight alignment. Place the rifle butt against the shoulder with the stock securely nested into the hollow of the shoulder. Lean forward slightly, NEVER backward. If the gun is equipped with telescopic sights, simply place the intersection of the cross-hair on the target and hold it as steadily as possible. If the gun has "iron" sights, look through the notch in the rear sight and align the front sight blade with it until the blade sits in the rear sight notch flush with its top. Place the aligned sights directly under the target. Whenever possible, rest the stock for-end (not the barrel) on a convenient tree branch or other supports to help hold it steady.

Next is proper trigger squeeze. More shots are missed because of a jerked trigger than for any other reasons. The trigger of any riffles or pistol for that matter MUST ALWAYS be gently pulled back toward the shooter with the ball of the forefinger, directly opposite the fingernail and ahead of the first joint. The shooter should NEVER know precisely when the gun will fire, but should press the trigger with steadily increasing force while concentrating on keeping the sights aligned with the target. When the gun discharges it should come as a surprise. The shooter should hold his breath during this exercise to prevent excessive barrel wobble.

That is basically all there is to shooting. Assuming the sights are in proper alignment with the target and the barrel is held steady and the firing distance is reasonable, the shooter who follows these simple instructions will hit hi s intended target.

LEN BOOK MEDICAL SUPPLIES:**
Most survival manuals put a great deal of emphasis on herbal medicines and with good reasons. There are virtually thousands of wild plants, trees and shrubs that have proven medicinal value. The major drawback to herbal medicine is that the woodsman needs to posses a great deal of knowledge to prepare and use them properly. In most instance it is safer and easier to carry a broad supply of modern medicine. However for everyone's convenience we have included some ways to prepare and use those medicinal herbs.

ASPIRIN:
It is an inexpensive yet fairly effective pain killer. It will help you ease the swelling in an injured or bruised limb, bring back down a fever & dampen the pain of minor injuries. Aspirin also works to thin blood and so MUST NOT be used when internal bleeding is suspected.

IBUPROFEN TABLETS:
They are available under a number of brand names, including the original medical name, Motrin. They are very effective against pain. Four of the over the counter tablets are equal to one prescription strength Motrin tablet. Except for possible stomach upset ALWAYS a potential side effect of Motrin, taking 4 Ibuprofen will not harm the user. However, use this dosage only in cases of very severe pain, NEVER exceed it and do not repeat it more often than once every 4 hours.

REMEMBER, pain is the body's signal that something is wrong. NEVER use a pain killer to make it possible to walk on an injured leg or to overcome a suspected back injury. Doing so will only make matters worse. It is better to be laid up for a couple of days with a minor injury than for a couple of weeks with an injury compounded by foolishness.

BAR OF SOAP:
It should ALWAYS be part of any wilderness first-aid kit. Doctors now agree that the best way to prevent infection in minor cuts and scrapes is not with peroxide, alcohol, mercurochrome or any of the other popular disinfectants but simply to wash the wound with soap and water. (MAKE SURE that the water is germ free by either boiling it or adding purifying substances.) My advice however is that you should use non-scented soap (ex: Sunlight bars), the reason because scented soap attracts mosquitoes etc.

ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENTS:
Such as Neosporin are also NECESSARY to a functional first-aid kit. These ointments take up where the soap and water leave off, providing a protective coating that keeps bacteria out of a wound as well as antibiotics to kill any germs that might still be there after the washing. Most antibiotics ointments also contain zinc oxide to accelerate healing.

IODINE:
It is not necessary to disinfect cuts, but it is a good idea to include a bottle of it in your kit. It will disinfect wounds, (although it destroys skin cells in the process) but it's most important as a water purifier. WARNING: VERY POISONOUS! 2 or 3 drops in a quart canteen will kill any virus, bacteria or trematode living in it. Iodine is also highly poisonous to humans! NEVER exceed 3 drops per quart of water and ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN that some of the water is sloshed over the mouth of the canteen before drinking from it. Commercially made iodine water purification tablets are available from most stores that sell camping equipment, but are 2 or 3 times more expensive than a bottle of ordinary iodine disinfectant and tend to disintegrate over time.

BUTTERFLY SUTURES:
They are a relatively new innovation that have found wide acceptance among outdoorsmen who do not have quick access to medical help but may need to close gaping wounds quickly before serious blood loss can occur. In days past, the only recourse was to stitch the wound closed with a needle and some type of thread. This is not recommended in the less than sterile environment of the wilderness because the needle and thread often introduce new infectious organisms that can breed in the closed wound. Nearly as effective as stitches, butterfly sutures are essentially very sticky tapes enclosed in a sterile envelope. After thoroughly washing the wound and stopping the bleeding as much as possible, the butterfly suture is used to pull the wound closed and hold it there.

SAFETY TAPE: Duct tape
A fairly new item that was originally designed to wrap the fingers of factory workers to prevent minor cuts and scratches. The tape is made by applying a latex coating over surgical grade cotton gauze and wrapping it in roll form. It will stick tenaciously to itself but will not adhere to anything else including skin.

Since most cuts sustained by woodsmen are on the fingers, safety tape is perfect for bandaging even serious wounds on the digits quickly and with almost no blood loss. After washing the wound thoroughly, apply a generous coating of an antibiotic ointment and wrap the finger with several snug (not tight) layers of safety tape. This will close the wound. Leave the tape on for a least 12 hours before carefully removing it to apply a looser wrap over a fresh coating of antibiotic ointment. Safety tape is also useful for wrapping sprained joints and applying splints to broken bones. It comes in a variety of widths up to 3 inches & an assortment of colors, although only white should be used as a bandage.

At the time of this writing there is only one source for safety tape that we are aware of. The company is General Bandages Inc. Box 99 Morton Grove Illinois 60053 USA. A free roll is available from them for the asking.

MULTIVITAMIN TABLETS:
They are on often overlooked item of the well-equipped first-aid kit. It is ironic that so many of the folks who religiously take vitamins at home will forget them in the woods. In a survival situation a good multivitamin can help to stave off the effects of malnutrition by providing the vitamins & minerals necessary to remain healthy and energetic. ** see Spectrum 29

TOOTHBRUSH:
It is another vital accessory that many woodsmen even trained survivalists tend to forget. A gum infection can set in quickly in the woods and can become an abscess without proper dental hygiene. A tooth abscess can virtually kill its victim overnight with a fever that can easily top the 100 degree mark. Toothpaste is optional (salt is a good one), but no woodsman should ever be without a toothbrush.

In a pinch the twig brush, an old fashioned cleaner that precedes the modern toothbrush will suffice. The twig brush is made by chewing a section of green twig (we recommend the witch hazel shrub) until the end is frayed and fibrous. Care should be taken to avoid twigs from poisonous shrubs like Dogwood **. Maple, oak, poplar, birch, beech and even pine can be safely used to make a twig brush.

PRESCRIPTION DRUGS:
For those going into very remote place these drugs can be a real asset. Penicillin, xylocaine, light prescription pain killers can sometimes be obtained by scheduling an appointment with the family doctor. Any doctor worth his salt will question your motives at length before consenting to write a prescription and will probably have a good bit of advice to offer concerning the use of prescription drugs in the wilderness.

Listen carefully to this advice and take notes; it may save your life in an emergency. Most doctors will also ask that you return any unused drugs when you come back. A well-stocked emergency medical kit can be invaluable in a survival situation and may even save your life. It need not be large or heavy but it MUST be as functional and efficient as possible.

Adequate medical kits can be made from small duffels, lunch boxes or even zip-lock plastic bag or even several ordinary hinged bar-soap containers filled with an assortment of small items and held closed by heavy rubber bands.

A LIST OF ITEMS:
1 tube antibiotic ointment., 1 roll 1" wide safety tape., Butterfly sutures, assorted sizes., 1 bottle Ibuprofen tablets., 1 bottle of aspirin /1 bottle of iodine, 1 small bar hand soap. / 1 toothbrush, 1 pair of tweezers / 1 small pair scissors, 6 alcohol prep pads/ 1 toenail clippers., 1 section latex rubber tubing, 2 feet long, for tourniquet (or 2 feet long Velcro strip), 1 bottle of multivitamins / 1 roll cotton gauze, 1 package sewing needle, assorted sizes, 1 styptic pencil. 1 mini-first-aid book.

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS: 
Only size and weight limit the utility of any survival kit. Although most experts highly urge anyone not to go over 40 lb. as a maximum. Of course the size and complexity of a deer hunter's survival kit will be less than that of a boater or off-road driver. 

The aforementioned items are those that have been proven useful many times and all of them are recommended for inclusion in any survivalist's kit. The following items are also very useful, but probably none of them are critical to survival. Of course, whether or not a particular item is necessary or not depends on the season, terrain, individual wants and a host of other factors.

SLINGSHOTS:
Most of us had slingshots as children. Those of us who are older than we care to admit probably made ours from rubber inner tubes and a Y-shaped stick. They were effective, but not nearly as powerful as the latest generation of high-velocity slingshots powered by tough latex rubber tubing. Using marbles or ball bearings as ammo, this new breed of slingshots is easily capable of taking most small game animals, providing the hunter has enough skills to hit them. Some models even fold into a compact unit for easy storage in a backpack.

SPARE SOCKS:
They are very important in cold weather. The best one all around are wool ones. Wet socks do little to keep feet warm and wearing wet socks in cold weather can result in trench-foot, frozen toes even gangrene. The military has long realized the importance of clean, dry socks in cold weather, especially under conditions of prolonged exposure.

LEATHER GLOVES:
Another important item to anyone in any weather. During warm weather a pair of heavy leather gloves will protect the hands from scratches, cuts, blisters and burns. In cold weather with a pair of wool liners inside, they will like-wise protect them from frostbite and cold. G-I issue gloves are adequate for all around use but the leather used to make them is not as heavy as that used in some of the civilian models, most notably those from Well-Lamont company. Ironically the less durable military gloves sell at twice the price of civilian work gloves. (Go figure?!)

WIDE HAT:
The wide-brimmed military type bush hat is more versatile than many folks realize. It offers nothing in the way of warmth during cold weather, but when it is warm the bush hat will help to keep the sun off the wearer's head and out of his eyes. Being made of heavy cloth it can be saturated with water and worn wet to keep the head cool, yet still retain enough water repellence to keep a pouring rain out of your eyes. Many have used theirs to filter mud, silt, and microscopic organisms from swamp water, even as berry bucket or pot-holder for campfire cooking or even as trap to catch minnows for use as bait. For the hunter this rumpled, misshapen appearance of the bush hat works to make him less recognizable in almost any terrain.

DEW RAG: (VERY USEFUL & MANY USES)
Used by Special Forces in Vietnam; it is nothing more than a very large handkerchief or square of heavy cloth preferably flannel or jersey and measuring 3 to 4 feet across. It can be used to filter muddy water, as an emergency tourniquet, arm-sling, as pot-holder, tied at the 4 corners to make a hobo bindle, as a sweatband, or a wash-cloth. In desert area it can be used to sponge up the dewdrops that collect on rock in the early morning. The gathered dew can then be wrung out into a canteen cup, tin can or directly into the mouth. 

WIRE TIES:
Large, colored wire ties, like those included with some brands of plastic bag are infinitely useful in the wild. They can be used to quickly fasten together the frame of an emergency shelter or bundle of dry grasses into an insulated sleeping mat. Or they can be used one per pair of eyelet's, to replace a boot-lace that has been sacrificed to make a snare or hunting bow. They will even serve to fasten branches, ferns, and leafy boughs to one's clothing as hunting camouflage.

ELECTRONIC & SURVIVAL: 
Besides the **Panasonic tracker, the electronics of today is so compact and energy efficient that there is no reason whatsoever not to have a radio receiver on any venture away from civilization. Personal AM/FM receivers are smaller than a deck of cards and can operate on 2 AAA alkaline cells for a week or more. One of the best backpack radio would be one that receives AM, FM, VHF-TV & Weather Band frequencies. They cost less than $20.00 and will operate on 4 AA batteries for a month when used for about 3 hours each day.

A good radio receiver can be most important for maintaining the morale of a stranded woodsman by constantly reminding him that civilization still exists. The receiver is also valuable for the weather reports it provides, especially if it has Weather Band capability.

SEWING KIT:
A sewing kit can be valuable not only to the survivalist but also to the recreational woodsman who is neither lost nor stranded. Clothing tears, ripped backpack seams, and a variety of other frequent damage that can be repaired only by needle and thread are common to wilderness travel. A very workable kit can be made by placing a small spoon of thread and a package of assorted sewing needles in a 35mm film bottle. The total cost of this type of kit is less than $1.00.

OTHER NEAR ESSENTIAL ITEMS: (LBE)
We highly recommend that any woodsman have with him a G-I type plastic canteen, canteen cup, canteen cover and nylon pistol belt. This heavy grommeted pistol belt is a handy place to carry a survival knife, medical kit, pouches and nearly all the smaller component of a practical survival kit.

One of the best harness is the US Army LBE (Load bearing equipment) harness which is basically just a pistol belt with heavy canvass suspenders attached. This belt should be worn with a heavy canvass suspender, otherwise it will slip off you too easily. It provides you with the most efficient and comfortable method of carrying other survival equipment that we have found. 

I have a razor-sharp USAF survival knife taped securely to the left shoulder strap (I am right-handed) in the upside down position for quick and easy access. (No I am no Rambo) I also have 2 ammo pouches attached to the belt that contain fishing tackle, matches, sewing kit, medical gear, Trioxane bars, .22 ammunition and an assortment of other items too numerous to list. Also attached to the belt is a small map pouch that contains a Silva map compass, a stainless steel mirror (All purpose blade see**) and a laminated waterproof map of the area I intend to be traveling. Occasionally I carry 2 canteens and still have plenty of room to attach extra pouches, a machete or hatchet and just about anything else that can be feasibly attached to the belt or suspenders. 

This LBE outfit is a completely self-contained survival kit that wears comfortably and weighs less than 15 pounds with 2 full canteens.

INSECT REPELLENT:
The importance of a good insect repellent depends on the terrain and the weather. In the snow or desert it has little value, but if you are traveling through h or near a swampy area in warm weather, an effective insect repellent is worth its weight in gold. Mosquitoes are usually the least of your worries; more important are the 300 species of horsefly and deerfly and the 600 species of blackflies. These parasitic flies are all very determined biters and all potentially dangerous to humans. 

Deerflies and horseflies both inflict bites that are quite painful, often bleed freely and swell into large wheals that can itch intensely for several days. (Ouch!!!) These 2 flies are credited with the ability to remove up to a pint and half of blood from a domestic animal in a single day. A human without protection in areas of heavily infestation could be in real danger.

Blackflies also pose a danger to the unprepared. Their bite is painless but ALWAYS bleeds freely and is followed by dime size wheal that itches intensely for several days. This fly has been known to kill thousands of animals in a single season and humans exposed to area of heavy blackfly infestation have in many cases required hospitalization.

All 3 of these flies have a proven ability to transmit a variety sometimes fatal diseases, including tularemia. Less noticeable ticks and chiggers also transmit a variety of diseases, most notably Lyme disease.

There are a number of wild plants that can be used as an effective insect repellent (specially catnip, cedar, and other mints), but few are as effective as a single bottle of repellent containing DEET stashed in the survival kit. We do not recommend aerosol spray because it is bad for the ozone layer besides taking too much room in your kit. A small bottle of Muskol brand repellent contains 100% DEET and will last for weeks in the wild. In the absence of insect repellent, the survivalist can protect himself by covering his face, hands and other exposed areas with a layer of mud.

Clothing should be buttoned as snugly as possible around the wrists and neck and trousers' legs should be bloused or tied securely around the ankles. Small, smoky "smudges" fires can be set around the perimeter of the camp to deter mosquitoes after dark and help the survivalist get a good night's sleep.

SMUDGE FIRES:
Smudges fires are made by building a small hot fire and then partially smothering it with wet leaves, grass or pine needles. With a good bed of coals a smudge fire will smolder for several hours and produce enough smoke to repel biting insects.

RECOMMENDED ITEMS FOR SURVIVAL KIT:
No survival kit will provide for every contingency in every environment, but the following are pretty much generic to all conditions. Any working survival kit should contain each of these, although those that have been recommended by name are offered merely as suggestions and are subject to personal preference. 

Survival Knife, Shrade M7-S or USAF survival knife, Compass, Silva Type 3 / This survival book, Matches, wooden, waterproof, strike anywhere" type. Butane lighter (I recommend 4), 2 on you at all times and 2 in your survival kit., Fishing kit (in 35mm film canister) , Space-blanket or large plastic tarp, Nylon cord 100 feet, 1 blade survival knife **see? for inf., Flashlight, AA Mini Mag-lite (batteries & bulbs), Signal flares, gun or pencil type with launcher, Fire starting tables, Trioxane or Hexamine, Candles (at least 2), Canteen, with metal cup, cover and belt (LBE), Spare socks, 1 pair, wool is best., Radio receiver, AM-FM with Weather Band, (Or and with a Panasonic tracker**), Medical supplies (see***) Poncho / sunglasses

OPTIONAL ITEMS FOR SURVIVAL KIT:
.22 rifle, Charter Arms AR-7 or Marlin 70-P, .22 ammo's, 100 rounds Remington Viper, Slingshot, latex tubing type, Gloves, leather & wool ones, Bush hat / Wire ties / Dog rag / Sewing kit, Insect repellent, bottle, 100% DEET, Spearhead, frog 3-tined, Prescription drugs (xylocaine, penicillin), Here could go either an addition to it or a 3rd class of items ex: soap, toothbrush, sponge, toilet paper, food / etc.

WHAT DO I DO FIRST?:
It is safe to say that anyone who suddenly finds himself thrust into a do-or-die survival situation will not be in a clear state of mind. This will be particularly true if he has been injured. Panic is the mortal enemy of anyone in a survival situation. It can and does cause people to do things that are counter-productive to their survival, even to the point of being suicidal. Since panic is a non-cerebral function, it can be most effectively controlled by maintaining a logical approach to the task of staying alive.

THE FIRST THING THE SURVIVALIST MUST DO IS MAKE HIMSELF AS COMFORTABLE AS POSSIBLE.
The critical thinking portion of the mind is seriously hampered by physical discomfort, so the survivalist needs to address the requirement of his body before attempting to devise an escape plan. He should apply first aid to any injuries, take an analgesic if in pain, build a fire to warm himself or find or construct a shelter if the weather is bad.

Once he has established a base camp and made himself as comfortable as possible, the survivalist can then take stock of both his supplies and his situation. Assuming that he has with him a well-equipped survival kit and that each of its components has withstood the ordeal up to that point. He can use map if he has one and his compass to determine his approximate location, learn what obstacle lies between himself and civilization, and plot the most direct route back home. If he has a working radio receiver, he should use it, not only to gather weather reports and forecasts, but also entertainment.

Proper attitude is also a vital part of the survival process. The way one perceives his situation is at least as important as his knowledge and skill. A successful survivalist is NEVER lost, only momentarily perplex. He may wonder when he will get home, but NEVER if he will get home. In most cases, the survivalist's best option will be to walk back to civilization. Before starting the trek, MAKE CERTAIN that you have a good idea of where you are headed as possible. Travel as lightly as you can, but not to the point of leaving behind transportable tools that might have critical importance on the trail. If package food is available, it should make up most of the weight carried because the pack will become lighter as the food is eaten, and REMEMBER, there is absolutely nothing to prevent you from taking as many rest periods as you feel are necessary.

Forced march has no application in real life and is in fact counterproductive. NEVER push yourself to the point of exhaustion because a tired mind and body are apt to make dangerous even deadly mistakes. Based on our experience, a cold, tired survivalist who continues to push on after his body tells him to stop will become irritable and jumpy and may go right over the edge into a blind panic. IN A NUTSHELL, ONE OF THE BIG SECRET TO SURVIVAL IS TO BE KIND TO YOURSELF. If you are cold, build a fire, if you are hungry, eat; and if you are tired, rest. Believe in yourself and NEVER doubt your own capabilities. 

All of us are born with inherent powerful survival instinct. That, a few basic pieces of equipment, and a little bit of knowledge are all that will be required to emerge alive and healthy from the most challenging wilderness survival situation. Believe it! 

BEST CLOTHING = WOOL: BEST WOOL IS FROM RABBIT FUR. MOST SURVIVAL SPECIALIST AGREE THAT THE BEST CLOTHING FOR RETAINING BODY HEAT IN WET WEATHER IS MADE FROM WOOL!

Gortex will help to keep you dry. Thinsulate Will keep you warm, when you are dry, but ONLY WOOL will keep you warm when you are soaking wet.** (Eve-n- Soak- King wet!)

SURVIVAL RATION BOX: * 
Sufficient ration of carbohydrates under all latitudes assuring to the survivor about 500 calories/day. THIS RATION BOX HAS BEEN TESTED BY & FOR THE ARMY THUS GOOD FOR CIVILIANS CONTAINING THE MAXIMUM OF UNIVERSAL ELEMENTS FOR SURVIVAL. It is called: "BEST UNIVERSAL RATION" because it contains the best nutritive elements that CAN BE EATEN with or without water and yet giving enough energy to keep the body alive without complications. IF one doesn't use too much energy. 1 gram of protein (with water) gives about: 400 calories / 1 gram of fat = 800 calories / 1 gram carbohydrates with water = 400 calories. This ration MUST be eaten as instructed for best result. For the first day, if the survivor does not eat, he will draw his energy in his own fat reserves coming from the food he ate the day before.

WORK SPECIAL NOTE:
Thus it is recommended to do the most physical work such as shelter construction, find and gathering fuel for fire, the placing of signalization devices etc. as much as possible on the first day when the survivor still has the maximum energy. This survival ration is mainly composed of carbohydrates but contains enough fat to gear the production of stomach acids which will neutralize the stomach contraction which gives hunger feelings. It is next to impossible to starve in a wilderness if one knows how to look for, if no game, look for fish, mollusk, birds, plants, roots etc.

FOOD TO BRING: 
One MUST consider the weight and its nutritive and energetic value in calories. The energy is measure in calories. A person in good health spends easily 4,000 calories per day. So 1 kilo of food MUST supply 400 calories per 100 grams of food in order to make up for the loss. Only oils & dry food contains as much. The food MUST also contain 10% of protein (P) to help maintain the skin tissues and at least 20% lipids (L) to increase the resistance of the organism and as for the #Glucides# (G). See** end of this chapter. They give energy which if not used right away will be transformed in fat which is not a problem for the men in the wild since fat is beautiful even Vital. (Calories = Cal) 

In the following list** those who have less than 25 % are in brackets. Spices are not included since their food value is low but they have their value as to the taste buds and the moral. Dry food sold in store is excellent, light, nourishing but costly. So dry it yourself with the new invention from USA a drying machine more on this to get information ****

RATIONS WISDOM:
ONE COULD LIVE MANY MONTHS WITH ONLY 4 ELEMENTS.
Powder milk, oil, enriched cereal and poly-vitamins capsules. I would personally add: Spirolina, peanuts, barley, salt, sugar. As well as fat, Pemmican and Pinhole, Gorp, Rockomini. ** See #? *** for recipe.

FOOD PACK SURVIVAL 4lbs: *
1 lb. of Pemmican, 1 lb. of Pinhole, 1lb. salted peanuts, 1lb. Of Pinhole or Gorp.

SURVIVAL RATIONS: * 
Fat which in calories is the most concentrated food is the sustenance most difficult to come by when living off the land.
Butter, lard, bacon dripping, tallow, oleomargarine has more than twice as many calories pound for pound than sugar & nearly 3 times as much as honey.

Therefore in survival conditions include a preponderance or priorities of EDIBLE fats with the idea of completing the diet from natural sources. Since bears eat insects such as larva, grubs; it maybe that the best way to get your fat would be to do the same, meaning use the insects to get your fat of the land if no other means available.

ALL SEEDS IN CONES RICH IN FAT, AND PROTEIN: ***
(Find all seeds and roots which are rich in fat and protein and have them first in the list of survival plants..)

BODY COOKING! REMEMBER: ONCE YOUR FEET ARE WARMED UP WE FEEL WARMER ALL OVER & NOTHING IS WARMER THAN 2 PAIRS OF SOCKS. (Wool is best of all.) REMEMBER again, in order not to freeze body, hands & feet one MUST cover his head, even cover your forehead. YOU LOOSE 1/3 HEAT BY HEAD UNCOVERED. SO COVER YOUR REAR AND HEAD - EVEN YOUR NOSE!

Pack Inventory
(outside pockets of pack) Canteen, 2 Quart, Rilfe Ammo Cases, 3- 20 Round (60 rounds total), Shotgun Shell Boxes, 3- 5 Round 000 Buck, Shotgun Shell Band, 9 Rounds (+ boxes = 24 rounds total), Shotgun Shells, Water Proof Clear Bagged, 6 spark Throwers, 3 Flares, Radio, 2-meter Handheld, Clear Parka, Glock Folding Shovel & Branch Saw, Ghilli Suit, 

(inside pouch of Pack) Pack of Underwear, Socks, Brown T-Shirt, Water Proof Clear Bagged, Flashlight, Duct Tape / Electrical Tape / Spool of Fishing Line / Zip Ties, Fence/Wire Cutters, Pepper Spray, First Aid Kit (Standard kit , + added items), Emergency Blanket, Chap Stick, Aspirin, Water Purifier Tablets (1 bottle), Toenail/Fingernail Clippers, Cough Drops, Snakebite kit, Clear Parka, Toilet Paper, Water Proof Clear Bagged, Wire Hand Band Saw, Magnesium Fire Starter Block, Pistol holster, Trouser Belt Type, Maintenance Kit for Mini Mag Light (lens, batteries, bulbs), 3 Compasses, Map Type, Hiking Type, Zipper-Pull type, Several Green Trash Bags, Large, Quick Energy Food Pack(s), Scope Lens Cleaner (Lens Pen), Spare Battery for Leica Laser Range Finder, Misc Writing Utensils, Pads, Pencil Sharpener, Waterproof notebook, Black Marker, Sewing Kit, Ranger Hand Book / Medical Hand Book, Chewing Gum, Gatorade Mix (2 - 2qt packs), Canteen Water Purifier Unit, Lighters (2), Face Paint, Mirror, Extra Shoe Laces, Hearing Protection (Ear Plugs), Insect Repellant, Swiss Army Knife, Small Phillips/Standard Screw Driver, Scope/Rifle Allen wrench kit, Gun Cleaning Kit, Lubricating Oil, Solvent Bottle / Powder & Copper Solvent

(Combat Harness Inventory) Alice Belt, Load Bearing Y-Harness, Pistol Holster, Leg Harness Type, Glock 19 Loaded with 15 rounds FEDERAL HYDRA SHOKs, Canteen, 1 Quart, Mini-Mag Light (Spare bulb in base) red Lens, Leatherman Super Tool, Double Pistol Magazine Pouch, Two (2) GLOCK Model-19 15 round pistol magazines, Loaded with 14 rounds each FEDERAL HYDRA SHOKs, Double Edged 6" Blade Knife, Duty Pouch, Rifle Ammo Band Loaded w/ 20 Rounds .300 Win Mag, Notebook & Pencil

(Water Proof Clear Bagged, Uniform Bag Inventory) High Top Black Leather/Canvas Boots (not in bag), Gum Bottom Shoes, Hat, Black Floppy, Belt, Trouser, Green, Shorts, Green, BDU Pants, Long, Long Sleeve Outer Shirt, Black, Long Sleeve Outer Shirt, Camo, Sunglasses, Boot Knife (Spiderco), Gloves, Black, 2 pair, Thick & Thin, Head Cover, Stretch, Black, Pack of Underwear, Socks, Brown T-Shirt, WP Clear Bagged, Wrist Watch, Document Wallet, Several Plastic Bags, Large, for Gear Stashing

Spare Uniform Bag Inventory (all WP clear bagged) 3 Packs Underwear, Socks, Brown T-Shirt, 2 Pair BDU Pants, Long, 2 Long Sleeve Outer Shirts, Black, Additional Items - Leica 1000m Laser Range Finder/Binoculars, Soft Case, Night Vision Binoculars, Soft Case, Primary Weapons, Custom Remington 700 BDL Heavy Barrel, Leupold Mark 4 Scope, Winchester Defender 12 Gauge Shotgun, Pistol Grip Stock, Pack-Clips on Sling

I don't have the time right now to comment on each and every item that you listed (and especially did not list) but I would like to say this:

1. The stuff you listed weighs a lot more than 25-30 lbs.

2. You MUST be able to carry each and every item of kit in your back-pack or on your person. You CAN NOT depend on someone else to take care of it for you.

3. You must bring clothing for every season of the year. The actual items of clothing would be different, depending on where in the US you live. But you must bring it all. And you MUST always bring two pairs of boots. Preferably one pair of all leather boots (Gore-Tex if you can afford it) and one pair of cooler boots.

4. If you carry a civilian rifle make sure that it has a fiberglass or carbon fiber stock, preferably of a thumb-hole design. A civilian wooden stock will break.

5. Bring a knife with a longer blade than 6". It should be 7" or more. The Ka-Bar USMC knife, or the new SOG Seal Team 2000 would be fine. Especially the latter (which is what I use nowadays). You need three knives, just as you listed, a 7-8" blade one, a 5" folder (folding hunter or Spyderco Clipit Endura) and a Swiss Army type.

6. You must carry a light weight camping stove. The Coleman Peak 1 range is good (especially the Feather 442 that burns ordinary unleaded gas). You must also carry pots and a small frying pan. Aluminum, not stainless steel. And remember, you must be able to survive on your own so you must carry all the food you need for at least 2-3 days. And BTW forget the Army-type mess kit, it's too heavy. Get something light weight.

7. You need a lightweight sleeping bag. And what the British call a "bivy-bag" to use instead of a tent. If you want to fight like the Rangers you must be able to live like the Rangers.

8. Get a GOOD compass. Some of the Swedish-made Silvas are among the best you can get at any price. And MAPS of the area where you intend to operate.

9. First aid kit.

10. You need a lot more than 60 rounds of ammo. Be prepared to carry 180 rounds or more just for yourself, for starters. Plus your share of whatever is needed for support weapons like MG's and the like. If you can get hold of a couple of Carl Gustav AT Recoilless Rifles, with an ample supply of high-explosive and HEAT rounds, then that would come in handy. They're the best. Get the version with the carbon-fiber reinforced tube, it weighs less than the all-steel tube. A few AT-4's could be a substitute, but then you wouldn't have the HE capability.

11. And before you do anything get the following books and memorize what's in them:

a) US Army Ranger Handbook (ST 21-75-2)
b) An infantryman's guide to urban combat (FM 90-10-1)
c) USMC Sniping (Available as ISBN 0-87947-420-3, published by Desert Publications, Cornville, AZ)

12. And finally, make sure that you are able to carry it all for extended periods of time. Say 25 miles a day for a number of days in a row. And I'm not kidding, you'll need that if you want to fight like Rangers, which is what you would have to do in order to survive. If you're in good shape you can do it. I have personally taken part in the International 100-mile Marches in Nijmegen, Holland, two years in a row. There you do 25 miles a day for four consecutive days, with a pack, marching at good speed. (Some 8,000 military personnel from up to 20 different countries, including some 500 US Army and USAF, take part every year).

Add:
Antibiotics. If you visit the doctor and get any, save some. They usually give you more than you need anyhow.

Binoculars/ field glasses.

Gas mask with filter(s).

Bandages (large-small), cotton roll, water-proof tape, cotton swabs/q-tips. and other assorted goodies. Everyone should carry some medical supplies.

You need a good watch. It should be water proof, have a timer and night light. Mine is a "Timex Expedition" with features: compass ring, analog and digital display, two timezones, two alarms, timer, stopwatch, night light.
Bed roll.. optional of course.

By the way a superb battery is RAYOVAC MAXIMUM ALKALINE. They seem to last forever in storage or in use. No joke... I've had two in one flashlight for a year now.. they are still going strong (and I do use this light for hours at a time on occasion.) And before being put in the flashlight they were in storage for TWO YEARS. Check em' out. Stay away from Ni-Cad rechargeables!

Basic Survival Equipment By Michael Ironwolf
In any survival situation, the basic needs of food, water and shelter must be met as well as personal protection from those attempting to appropriate YOUR food, water and shelter. We should expect an increase in the number of individuals interested in survival. In addition, after observing the lawlessness that occurred in St. Croix what with the military HELPING the looters, we should also expect some "SOFT Survivalists" (NO GUNS) to become "Hard Survivalists" (LOTS OF GUNS). Please welcome them into our ranks. (They didn't know any better). This basic list of individual equipment will give anyone, veteran or newbie, a place to start obtaining the hardware they will need in the very near future.

The following list of equipment should be considered a BASIC load and will continue to be improved as finances permit. Ideally, your "Bug Out Bag" is utilized to provide for your needs enroute to your retreat site or if relocation is necessary due to pursuit by an invading army or secret police. Your personal equipment demands the best that money can buy. In almost every case this is government issue or contract overrun produced equipment. Take advantage of the millions of dollars of R & D the government has done and buy things that will literally last decades if properly maintained.

Mandatory Basic Equipment Survey Checklist
3 Bag, Duffle, G.I., Nylon, Type II, O.D., 1 Belt, Pistol, Nylon, LC-2, O.D., 1 Harness, LBE "Y" or "H", Nylon, O.D., 2 Cover, Canteen, Nylon, O.D., 1 qt., 1 Cup, Canteen, Steel, 1 qt., 2 Canteen, Plastic, O.D., 1 qt., 3 Opener, Can, P-38, Steel or Aluminum, 1 Utensil, Eating, Knife/Fork/Spoon, 1 Kit, Mess, G.I., Steel or Aluminum, 3 Matches, Waterproof/Windproof, Survival, Boat, 2 Knife, Combat, U.S.M.C. K-Bar or Equiv, 2 Pouch, Magazine, G.I., Nylon, O.D., 3 X 30 rd., 1 Shovel, Tri-fold, (G.I. Reconditioned NOT Chinese Import !), 1 Cover, Shovel, Nylon or Neoprene, 1 Buttpack w/carrying Strap, G.I., O.D. (Nylon or Web), 1 Sling, Silent, 1 1/4" or M60 GPMG, 1 Compass, Lensmatic, G.I., O.D., Tritium, 1 Compass, Backup (Silva or Equiv), 1 Blanket, G.I., O.D., 80% Wool, 1 Bag, Sleeping, G.I., O.D., Intermediate (Synthetic NOT Down), 2 Pouch, First Aid/Compass, Empty, 1 Flashlight, Anglehead, O.D. or Black, 1 Frame, Ruck, ALICE, LC-2 (or LC-1), 1 Ruck, ALICE, large or medium, G.I., Nylon, O.D., 1 Pr. Straps, Shoulder, Quick Release, ALICE, LC-2,(or LC-1) 1 Waist Belt, ALICE LC-2 (only), 1 Bladder, Canteen, 5 qt., 1 Poncho, Camo, Nylon , G.I., (1 req'd., 2 recommended), 1 Poncho, O.D., Rubber, G.I.
1 Liner, Poncho, Camouflage, 1 pr. Pants, Rain, O.D. or Camo, 1 Case, Map, Assault Systems type, Small, 1 Kit, 1st Aid, Parachutist, Complete, 1 Stove, Special Forces, ESBIT Type, Small, 9 Hexamine, Bar, Heating (For Stove), 1 Carbiner, Steel, Black, (Search & Rescue Type), 1 Webbing, Tubular, 1" Black, Swiss seat, 14' long, 1 Mirror, Distress, Signal, 2' X 3", G.I., 3 Repellent, Insect, G.I., 2 Stick, Camo., Shades-Loam, light green, Sand, White, etc., 1 Balm, Lip, Artic, 1 Balm, Lip, Hot Climate (With #35 Sunscreen), 2 Bot Tab, Water Purifier (Potable Aqua) (Iodine NOT Chlorine), 1 Filter, Water, Micro-ceramic, (First Need), 2 Soap, Ivory (UNSCENTED), 2 Toothbrush/Toothpaste, 1 Razor, 1 Washcloth, O.D., 1 Towel, O.D., 1 Can, Silicone, Waterproofing Spray, 
4 Ration, MRE, G.I., Current Manufacture, Mandatory Clothing Survey Checklist, 1 pr. Boots, Combat or Jungle, 1 pr. Laces, Boot, 3 pr. Socks, O.D., cushion Sole or Equiv., 3 Shirts, T.,Choice of: O.D.,Black, AIRR, or Camo, 1 pr. Shells, gloves, D3A, 1 pr. Liners, gloves, D3A, wool, O.D., 1 Sweater, Wool, Choice of O.D.,Black, or Camo. ONLY, 1 Sweater, Acrylic, Same as above, ONLY IF ALLERGIC to WOOL, 1 Belt, Pants, 1 set Long Underwear, Black, Thermax, 2 set Pants and Shirt set, Fatigue, Camouflage, Ripstop, G.I.Woodland, G.I.Tigerstripe Viet-Nam, 1 Jacket, Field, M65 Pattern of Uniform Chosen.
1 Liner, Jacket, Field, M-65, 1 Cap, Patrol, Ear Flaps, Pattern Of Uniform Chosen, 1 Cap, Boonie, Pattern Of Uniform Chosen

Minimum Weapon,  Requirement
1 Rifle, Colt AR-15, 1 Kit, Cleaning (Rod, Patches, Oil), 1 Case, Kit, Cleaning, 7 Magazine, Colt AR-15, 30 Round, 600 Rounds .223 Ammunition, 1 Pistol, U.S. Govt Issue Type, .45 Cal Colt Govt, 9mm Beretta 92F, 9mm SIG SAUER P226, 3 Magazine, Pistol, 15 Round, 200 Rounds Ammunition

Tips & Tricks :

1. The ammunition requirements are BARE MINIMUM. Should you be forced to defend yourself, you and your team could eat up a case of 1000 rounds in 6 or 7 MINUTES! Stock up now !

2. Always purchase surplus used excellent/very good or contract production overruns. DO NOT BUY overseas imports (except for Korean Jungle Boots...OK) or reproductions. You NEED the tough mil spec construction/materials.

3. Your sleeping bag should ALWAYS be synthetic (holofil) or equivalent. DO NOT USE GOOSE DOWN. It gets wet, you freeze. You freeze, You die.

4. Water purification tablets should be IODINE based. Chlorine based tablets do not kill giardia parasites.

5. Use an unscented soap like ivory. Its cheap, keeps for a long time and is a good CATFISH BAIT for fishing. In addition, heavy perfume scents can be detected by animals in the bush (2 & 4 footed animals)

6. Don't be afraid to take advantage of the new fabrics to make like more comfortable. Gortex (waterproof), Thermax (warmth) and Kevlar (antiballistic) are very useful. In addition, use of silicone waterproofing spray on cammies, boots, packs and sleeping bags is recommended.

7. When packing your kit ALWAYS distribute the weight evenly. Remember that someone besides an adult male (wife, children) may be forced to "get started" without you.

8. The construction of your "Bug Out Bag" is a personal project and should reflect your personal needs. It is not a good idea to buy a cute little prepackaged "survival bag", set it in the closet and forget it. Remember that 35-40% of the cost of that product is "profit" to the dealer. Good equipment at good prices can be had at small surplus stores, gun shows and even better deals can be had by mail order.

Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit - FEMA
After a disaster, local officials and relief workers will be on the scene, but they cannot reach everyone immediately. You could get help in hours, or it may take days. Would your family be prepared to cope with the emergency until help arrives?

Your family will cope best by preparing for disaster before it strikes. One way to prepare is by assembling a Disaster Supplies Kit. Once disaster hits, you won't have time to shop or search for supplies. But if you've gathered supplies in advance, your family can endure an evacuation or home confinement.

To prepare your kit
Review the checklists in this document. Gather the supplies that are listed. You may need them if your family is confined at home. Place the supplies you'd most likely need for an evacuation in an easy-to-carry container. These supplies are listed with an asterisk (*). Disasters happen anytime and anywhere. And when disaster strikes, you may not have much time to respond. A highway spill of hazardous material could mean instant evacuation. A winter storm could confine your family at home. An earthquake, flood, tornado or any other disaster could cut off basic services--gas, water, electricity and telephones--for days.

Water
Store water in plastic containers such as soft drink bottles. Avoid using containers that will decompose or break, such as milk cartons or glass bottles. A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day. Hot environments and intense physical activity can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers and ill people will need more. Store one gallon of water per person per day (two quarts for drinking, two quarts for food preparation/sanitation)* Keep at least a three-day supply of water for each person in your household.

Food
Store at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food. Select foods that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or no water. If you must heat food, pack a can of sterno. Select food items that are compact and lightweight. *Include a selection of the following foods in your Disaster Supplies Kit:
Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables, Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water), Staples--sugar, salt, pepper, High energy foods--peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars, trail mix, Vitamins, Foods for infants, elderly persons or persons on special diets, Comfort/stress foods--cookies, hard candy, sweetened cereals, lollipops, instant coffee, tea bags

First Aid Kit
Assemble a first aid kit for your home and one for each car. A first aid kit* should include:

- Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes
- 2-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
- 4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
- Hypoallergenic adhesive tape
- Triangular bandages (3)
- 2-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
- 3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
- Scissors
- Tweezers
- Needle
- Moistened towelettes
- Antiseptic
- Thermometer
- Tongue blades (2)
- Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant
- Assorted sizes of safety pins
- Cleansing agent/soap
- Latex gloves (2 pair)
- Sunscreen
Non-prescription drugs
- Aspirin or non aspirin pain reliever
- Anti-diarrhea medication
- Antacid (for stomach upset)
- Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison Control Center)
- Laxative
- Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)

Contact your local American Red Cross chapter to obtain a basic first aid manual.

SUPPLIES
There are six basics you should stock in your home: water, food, first aid supplies, clothing and bedding, tools and emergency supplies and special items. Keep the items that you would most likely need during an evacuation in an easy-to-carry container--suggested items are marked with an asterisk(*). Possible containers include a large, covered trash container; a camping backpack; or a duffle bag.

Tools and Supplies
Mess kits, or paper cups, plates and plastic utensils*, Emergency preparedness manual*, Battery-operated radio and extra batteries*, Flashlight and extra batteries*, Cash or traveler's checks, change*, Nonelectric can opener, utility knife*, Fire extinguisher: small canister, ABC type, Tube tent, Pliers, Tape, Compass, Matches in a waterproof container, Aluminum foil, Plastic storage containers, Signal flare, Paper, pencil, Needles, thread, Medicine dropper, Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water, Whistle, Plastic sheeting, Map of the area (for locating shelters), Sanitation, Toilet paper, towelettes*, Soap, liquid detergent*, Feminine supplies*, Personal hygiene items*, Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses), Plastic bucket with tight lid, Disinfectant, Household chlorine bleach

Clothing and Bedding
Include at least one complete change of clothing and footwear per person, Sturdy shoes or work boots*, Hat and gloves, Rain gear*, Thermal underwear, Blankets or sleeping bags*, Sunglasses

Special Items
Remember family members with special needs, such as infants and elderly or disabled persons.

For Baby*
Formula, Diapers, Bottles, Powdered milk, Medications

For Adults*
Heart and high blood pressure medication, Insulin, Prescription drugs, Denture needs, Contact lenses and supplies, Extra eye glasses, 

Entertainment--games and books.

Important Family Documents - Keep these records in a waterproof, portable container.
Will, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds, Passports, social security cards, immunization records, Bank account numbers, Credit card account numbers and companies, Inventory of valuable household goods, important telephone numbers, Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)

SUGGESTIONS AND REMINDERS
Store your kit in a convenient place known to all family members. Keep a smaller version of the Disaster Supplies Kit in the trunk of your car. Keep items in air-tight plastic bags. Change your stored water supply every six months so it stays fresh. Rotate your stored food every six months. Re-think your kit and family needs at least once a year. Replace batteries, update clothes, etc. Ask your physician or pharmacist about storing prescription medications.

 

 

 

Please Read The Website Disclaimer!
Copyright 1986-2012, The Survival & Self-Reliance Studies Institute (SSRsi), All Rights Reserved
Site conceptualized, designed, created & maintained by MEG Raven
Snail Mail: SSRsi, PO Box 2572 Dillon, CO. 80435-2572